Blue jay

Crows, ravens, magpies, nutcrackers and jays — these songbirds are all corvids, a family with many of the world’s smartest and most social birds. Their intelligence exceeds that of all other bird families, except parrots.

NO “BIRDBRAINS” HERE

With their large brain-to-body size (larger than all other bird families), corvids have complex learning and recognition skills, similar to those of primates. In experiments, crows and ravens solve challenging puzzles designed for them to access a reward (food).

California scrub-jay with peanut

Corvids are so curious, they can even figure out how to use tools without being shown. In the wild, crows have been observed dropping nuts on paved roads and waiting for cars to drive over them so they can then pick out the edible parts of the crushed nuts. Corvids are also good at recognizing individuals. Experiments show that American crows (and other corvids) can identify specific human faces and even people’s facial expressions.

Their language is also highly developed. Listen to crows, jays or ravens, and you’ll notice how many different vocalizations they have! They can also learn vocal mimicry. Blue jays imitate the calls of red-shouldered hawks nearly perfectly, while crows and ravens have a much wider range, mimicking all sorts of sounds, from other animals to mechanical sounds and even human words. While visiting friends in Canada, we heard a common raven several times say the name of our friends’ dog. The raven had heard the dog’s name being yelled over and over and learned to mimic it!

Steller’s jay

FAMILY DEVOTION

Corvids are very social birds and are close to family members. There’s a strong bond not just between parents and young but also between mates, who are typically together for life. Another amazing characteristic of corvids, which appears more often than with most other birds, is something called “cooperative breeding.”

With corvids, this is when the offspring of a pair of jays or crows, for example, stay with their parents even after they are old enough to be on their own. It helps them learn even more for when they do finally go off to raise their own families, but it’s also so they can help their parents raise future clutches of young — their siblings. They might help with nest building, feeding the young or removing poop from the nest.

They can also act as lookouts for hawks, owls or snakes, warning the family when these predators appear. Groups of jays and other songbirds will come together to squawk at a snake or raptor to let the predator know that there will be no meal while “we see you!” Corvids often harass predators larger than themselves. Jays might dive-bomb a crow, and a crow might dive-bomb an even larger predator, like a red-tailed hawk!

The strong family bond in corvids is also shown in their behavior when a family member dies. They mourn the loss deeply. At our home in Florida, a rat snake once killed a blue jay, and a family member perched above on a tree branch making sad sounds for a long time. It was a very emotional observance.

Common raven

WILD FRIENDS

Corvids are found on all continents except Antarctica, with 130 species worldwide. Nearly all of the 20 corvid species native to the U.S. are year-round residents, staying in the same area their whole lives. However, some individuals of certain species, particularly blue jays and American and fish crows, might migrate short distances, heading to warmer areas in the winter. Crows can gather in huge flocks in the hundreds or even thousands (called a “murder” of crows) — safety in numbers!

Many people think crows, ravens, magpies and jays are obnoxious or don’t like them because they are noisy or seem to chase off other birds, but we hope that you’ll come to appreciate and respect these brainy birds. Their ability to adapt and learn is truly remarkable and puts them in a league with other clever, curious creatures. Remember, they can recognize your face and your sounds, so talk to them nicely, put out feeders and water for them, and they might become your “wild” friends!

4 FAST FACTS ABOUT CORVIDS

1. Corvids typically live long lives. One blue jay in the wild lived to be 26 years old. A common raven in captivity lived to the ripe old age of 69.

2. Common ravens are the largest corvid, as well as the largest songbird in the world, weighing up to 3.5 pounds!

3. Corvids store food to eat later — sometimes half a year later or longer! Blue jays and scrubjays cache acorns, and nutcrackers cache pine nuts. Scrub-jays have been known to cache thousands of acorns from one year’s crop.

4. Experiments have shown that crows can use tools, plan ahead, barter for future food rewards and learn to perform tasks even faster than some primates.

Bats and birds are their specialties, but wildlife biologists Selena Birgit Kiser and Mark Kiser love all species of critters. Both have worked for the State of Florida and previously worked for Bat Conservation International on such programs as the Great Florida Birding and Wildlife Trail and the North American Bat House Research Project.

"Clever Curious Corvids: Learn About This Family of Brainy Birds" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You can create a tasty meal with just heavy-duty aluminum foil and hot coals from a campfire. Food wrapped airtight in foil cooks like it’s in a miniature pressure cooker.

PREPARING THE INGREDIENTS

Almost anything you like can be cooked in a foil dinner packet. Here are some of our favorite ingredients:

• Protein: Ground beef, chicken breast, sausage, fish, or even tofu for a vegetarian option.
• Vegetables: Potatoes, carrots, onions, bell peppers, zucchini, mushrooms, corn, etc.
• Seasoning: Salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, or Italian seasoning.
• Fat: Olive oil, butter, or cooking spray to prevent sticking and add flavor.

To prepare the ingredients, cut the vegetables into uniform, bite-sized pieces so they cook evenly. If you’re using meat, make sure it’s cut into small pieces or patties for faster, even cooking.

Lay out a large sheet of aluminum foil (about 12-18 inches long). For best results, use heavy-duty aluminum foil to prevent tearing. You may also want to double wrap it if you’re concerned about your meal breaking open during cooking.

Before assembling your meal, lightly oil or spray the the foil to prevent sticking. Then layer your ingredients. Start with the protein (like a ground beef patty, sausage or chicken), then add your veggies on top. Season generously with salt, pepper and your choice of herbs and spices.

HOW TO FOLD A FOIL DINNER

When you fold your foil meal, allow some space for expansion by wrapping your uncooked food loosely. If you want your food to brown or broil as if it were in a skillet, leave the package open at the top so the steam can escape, and you can watch your meal cook. Otherwise, fold the foil to make it airtight.

There are three ways to fold a foil dinner: handle wrap, bundle wrap and drugstore wrap.

• To use the handle wrap, tear off a section of foil long enough to double it, and crimp and fold the foil into the shape you need.
• For the bundle wrap, place your food in the center of the foil. Bring the corners of the foil up into a pyramid shape, twisting the four corners together to create a seal.
• And with the drugstore wrap, place your food in the center of the foil. Fold the sides up and tightly crimp and fold down several times. Bring the open ends together, folding several times, and crimp it to seal.

HOW LONG DOES A FOIL DINNER TAKE TO COOK?

Place the wrapped food directly on a bed of hot coals. With some heat on top, a foil packet of diced vegetables and meat should cook in 10 to 15 minutes. Whole potatoes are done in 40 to 50 minutes. If you don’t have heat on top, you’ll want to flip it halfway through.

Use long tongs and oven mitts to move foil packs or pick them up. Open the packets carefully, as steam will escape. You can eat directly from the foil or transfer your meal to a plate. Add any extras like cheese, herbs, or sauces at this point.

"How to Cook a Tasty Foil Dinner In the Campfire" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

When you trek uphill, a hiking stick or trekking pole helps you keep your footing. If you’re trekking up a snowy mountain, you’ll want to carry an ice ax. Not only can an ice ax help you as you climb, it could also save you during a fall.

If you fall on a steep snow slope and begin to slide, you’ll want to use the ax to self-arrest, or stop your slide. Grip the head of your ice ax with one hand (the point of the pick turned away from you) and hold the shaft with the other. Roll toward the head of the ax until you are on your belly. The pick will embed itself in the snow and should stop you in a surprisingly short distance.

If your fall turns into a headfirst tumble, roll toward the pick and, as it bites into the snow and begins to slow your descent, swing your feet around until they are below you.

Self-arresting requires expert instruction and a lot of practice. Begin with purposely sliding on a slope with a safe runout. Slide in every imaginable position. When you automatically make the right moves to arrest your fall, you will have mastered a mountaineering safety skill.

"How to Use an Ice Ax to Self-Arrest on a Snowy Slope" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Need knee-slapping funny campfire skits? Skip the invisible bench, and try some of these entertaining ideas.

Whether you’re at summer camp, a pack meeting or a weekend camporee, these funny campfire skits are easy to perform and also totally Scout-appropriate — so no worries about making things awkward. From slapstick comedy to clever wordplay, these easy skits will bring the fun without crossing any lines, making them perfect for a night of entertainment around the campfire.

1. CAN’T WORK IN THE DARK

SETTING: Outdoors, with four or more people pretending to rake leaves or dig with shovels. One person stands in the middle, pretending to be a light bulb with their arm raised straight up.
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Boss, light bulb person, three or more workers
PROPS NEEDED: Rakes, shovels (optional)

SKIT:

Boss enters, looks around and focuses on the Lightbulb Scout who is standing still with arms raised.

Boss (sternly): “Hey! I’m paying you to work, not to just stand there. Why aren’t you working?”

Light bulb person (proudly, without moving): “I’m a light bulb!”

Boss (annoyed): “A light bulb? I don’t need a light bulb standing around. Get to work! If you’re still here when I come back, you’re fired!”

Boss exits. Light bulb person remains, arm raised, while the others continue to rake and dig.

Boss re-enters, spots the light bulb person.

Boss (angrily): “Still not working? You’re fired! Get out!”

Light bulb person lowers their arm and walks off stage. The other workers stop working, confused.

Boss: “Why did you guys stop working? Get back to work!”

Worker: “How? We can’t work in the dark!”

The workers exit, leaving Boss alone, groaning in frustration.

2. THE INFANTRY IS COMING!

SETTING: Open stage space. The people will run in from offstage.
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Four people, sapling holder
PROPS NEEDED: Small sapling or branch

SKIT:

Person 1 (panicked): “The infantry is coming! Head for the bomb shelters!” (runs off)

Person 2 (shouting): “The infantry is coming! Save yourselves!” (runs off)

Person 3 (excited): “The infantry is coming! We should help them!” (runs off)

Person 4 (calmly): “The infantry is coming! Let’s go watch the tanks!” (walks off)

Person with sapling slowly enters, holding the tree.

Sapling holder (proudly): “And here it is … the infant tree!” (holds up the sapling)

3. ICE FISHING SKIT

SETTING: Outdoors, with “fishermen” slipping and sliding like they are on a frozen lake
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Three people, loud off-stage voice
PROPS NEEDED: Imaginary ice drill, fishing rods

SKIT:

Person 1: “We’re ice fishermen! We’re catching dinner tonight!”

The fishermen pretend to drill a hole in the ice, and they begin fishing in silence.

Off-stage voice booms: “THERE ARE NO FISH THERE!”

They jump, confused.

Person 2: “Let’s try over there.”

They move, drill a new hole and start fishing again.

Off-stage voice: “THERE ARE NO FISH THERE!”

They jump in confusion again.

Person 3: “Let’s try one more spot.”

They move, drill a hole and fish.

Off-stage voice: “LISTEN! I’M THE ICE RINK MANAGER. THERE ARE NO FISH HERE!”

They freeze, look around realizing their mistake and run off stage.

4. THE AMAZING BRUCE, OLYMPIC BLANKET FLYER

SETTING: Open space, with people in a circle pretending to hold an invisible blanket
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Leader, six blanket holders
PROPS NEEDED: None (invisible props)

SKIT:

Leader: “We are the world-renowned Olympic Blanket Flying Team here to perform a campfire skit! And here’s Bruce, our star bouncer!”

They pretend to toss invisible Bruce lightly into the air. The blanket holders’ eyes appear to track him as he goes up and then back down.

Leader: “Alright, higher! One, two, THREE!”

The leader repeats this a few times, with the blanket holders appearing to throw Bruce higher each time. Finally, the leader pauses and pretends to be listening to Bruce saying something.

Leader: “Ladies and gentleman, Bruce wants to go for the world record! Let’s hear it for Bruce!”

The leader encourages the audience to clap and cheer. On the count of three, the blanket holders pretend to throw Bruce really high in the sky. The blanket holders point above the trees as if they’re tracking him, pretending to eventually lose sight of him.

Leader (shrugs): “Oh well, he’ll come down eventually.”

The leader and blanket holders exit the stage, leaving the audience hanging. Later in the campfire program, after a few additional skits or songs, the leader rushes back on to the stage.

Leader (shouting): “BRUCE! He’s coming back! Everybody get ready!”

The blanket holders rush to form a circle with their pretend blanket and “catch” Bruce. Everyone celebrates as the audience cheers.

5. CLEAN SOCKS SKIT

SETTING: A quartermaster is standing with a pile of socks on stage
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Quartermaster, four Scouts
PROPS NEEDED: A pile of socks

SKIT:

Quartermaster: “Hey, everybody, the new Scout socks have arrived! Come and get them!”

The other Scouts run onto the stage and form a line to get their socks.

Quartermaster: “Alright, how many socks do you need?”

Scout 1: “I need two pairs. I wear one all week while the other is in the hamper.”

Quartermaster (cringing): “Yuck! Oh well, here you go.”

The Scout gets two pairs of socks and walks away. The next Scout steps up to the quartermaster.

Quartermaster: “How many do you need?”

Scout 2: “Four pairs. I change them every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.”

Quartermaster (relieved): “Well, that’s better than wearing one pair all week. Here you go. Next!”

Scout 3: “I need seven pairs.”

Quartermaster (impressed): “Seven? I bet that’s a fresh pair every day, right?”

Scout 3: “You got it!

Quartermaster: “That’s what I like to hear. A clean Scout! Who’s next?”

The final Scout steps forward with a confident smile.

Quartermaster: “And how many socks do YOU need?”

Scout 4: “Twelve pairs, please!”

Quartermaster (surprised): “Twelve, wow! You must really like to keep clean. Why twelve pairs?”

Scout 4: “Well, there’s January, February, March, April, May…”

All Scouts groan as the quartermaster hands over socks.

Looking to write your own funny campfire skits? Get ideas from the Scout Life Think & Grin website with more than 4,000 kid-approved jokes.

6. IS IT TIME YET?

SETTING: People standing or sitting in a line with awkwardly crossed arms and legs
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Several people
PROPS NEEDED: None

SKIT:

Person 1: “Is it time yet?”

Person 2: “Is it time yet?”

Person 3: “Is it time yet?”

The question moves down the line, with each person repeating the question until it reaches the last person.

Last person (loudly): “No!”

The answer passes back up the line from the last person to the first person, with each person repeating “no.” After a few seconds, they repeat the process. Each person asks the question again, and the last person replies “no.” The answer again passes back up the line to the first person.

Finally, after a long pause:

First person (urgently): “IS IT TIME YET?”

The question moves down the line for a third time, with each person repeating the question until it reaches the last person.

Last person: “YES!”

The word gets passed back up the line quickly, and then all the people simultaneously uncross their legs and arms and cross them the other way.

7. BROKEN FINGER SKIT

SETTING: Two Scouts are onstage
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Two Scouts
PROPS NEEDED: None

SKIT:

Scout 1: “Hey, you’re good with first aid. I really need your help.”

Scout 2: “What’s wrong?”

Scout 1: “When I touch my forehead, it really hurts.”

Scout 1 demonstrates by touching their forehead and wincing in pain.

Scout 1: “And when I press on my jaw, it’s also painful.”

Scout 1 touches their jaw and cries out in pain.

Scout 2: “That sounds like something is really wrong. Does anything else hurt?”

Scout 1: “Yeah, when I push on my stomach, it hurts so bad I almost cry.”

Scout 1 pushes on their stomach and looks like they are in agony.

Scout 2: “Let me take a look.”

Scout 2 examines Scout 1, listens to the heart, looks in the ear and has them open their mouth. Scout 2 looks very concerned.

Scout 2: “Well, I don’t know … this seems serious. You better see a doctor.”

Scout 1 nods and staggers offstage.

After a brief pause, Scout 1 returns looking relieved.

Scout 2: “So what did the doctor say? What’s wrong with you?”

Scout 1: “The doctor says … I have a broken finger!”

Scout 2 shakes their head as they both exit.

8. SECOND LANGUAGE

SETTING: A group of people standing together. One is wearing a sign that says “Mother Mouse,” and the others are wearing signs that say “Mouse Children.”
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Cat, Mother Mouse, several Mouse Children
PROPS NEEDED: Signs labeled “Mother Mouse,” “Cat” and “Mouse Children”

SKIT:

Scene begins with Mother Mouse leading her Mouse Children on a walk. A cat enters suddenly, blocking their path. The Mouse Children freeze in fear.

Cat (threatening): “I’m going to eat you!”

Mother Mouse (in a loud voice): “Bowwow! Bowwow! Bark! Ruff! Arf arf arf! Woof!”

Cat reacts with shock and fear. It quickly backs up and runs away.

Mouse Children (in unison): “Mom, we were so scared! You saved us!”

Mother Mouse: “That’s why it pays to learn a second language!”

9. THE VIPER IS COMING!

SETTING: This funny campfire skit only needs some open space
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Four people, Viper
PROP NEEDED: Napkin or rag

SKIT:

One by one, the people rush in, warning about the Viper.

Person 1: “The Viper is coming!”

Person 2: “Here comes the Viper! Call for help!”

Person 3: “Watch out! The Viper is on its way!”

Person 4: “The Viper is almost here! Save yourselves!”

Finally, the Viper enters, calm and casual, holding the rag.

Viper: “Hello! I’m the Viper! Vere’s the vindows? I’ve come to vipe them clean!”

10. THE LOST QUARTER

SETTING: A streetlamp onstage. One person can pretend to be the streetlamp by standing with their arm up holding a flashlight. Another person is obviously searching for something under the lamp.
CHARACTERS NEEDED: Four people, streetlamp person
PROPS NEEDED: Flashlight

SKIT:

Person 1 is searching the ground under the “streetlamp.” After a few moments, Person 2 and 3 join in the search. Person 4 then approaches the group.

Person 4: “Hey, what are you looking for?”

Person 1: “A coin that I lost.”

Person 2: “He lost a quarter.”

Person 4: “Ok, I’ll help.”

Person 4 kneels down and helps search for the quarter. Everyone is searching the same spot of ground.

Person 4 (after a few moments of searching): “Where exactly did you lose the quarter?”

Person 1 (pointing far away): “Way over there.”

Person 4 (confused): “Then why are you looking here?”

Person 1 (with confidence): “Because the light is better over here!”

The group stops, groans in realization and exits the stage shaking their heads.

Do you have a favorite funny campfire skit? Tell us about it in the comments!

"10 Funny Campfire Skits" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Cooking with a camping stove offers many advantages: They’re reliable, convenient and allow you to be more self-sufficient. Camping stoves use different types of fuel. Propane is the most popular, but other stoves use fuels like white gas and denatured alcohol. Scouting America recommends you do not use liquid alcohol fuels, including isopropyl alcohol, denatured ethyl alcohol and ethanol.

Camping stoves can come as small single-burners, perfect for a backpacking trek, or large double-burner setups, which work best when car camping. Consider how you’ll use your stove before buying.

CAMPING STOVE SAFETY RULES

When using a camping stove, follow these safety rules:

• Always read the manufacturer’s instructions before using a stove, and be sure to follow them. Use only fuels that are in accordance with the instructions, and do not modify the equipment beyond its design limitations.

• Never use a stove inside or near a tent or under a dining fly.

• Don’t overload the stove, and never leave a stove unattended.

• Let the stove cool completely before changing fuel canisters or putting it away.

• Keep all propane canisters away from sources of heat, even if they are empty.

• When changing canisters, or if you suspect a problem, test for fuel leakage by using a solution of 1 tablespoon of dish soap mixed with 1 cup of water. Lightly sprinkle the soap-water solution over the connection and fittings between the propane canister or tank and the stove. If you see bubbles from any connection, turn off and disconnect the propane canister or tank and reconnect properly.

"How to Safely Use a Camping Stove" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The more you use rope, the more it frays. If you whip and fuse rope, you can make one of the most important tools in Scouting last a little longer.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

• Frayed rope
• At least 10 inches of string, dental floss or thin twine
• Scissors
• A lighter, match or candle

HOW TO WHIP THE END OF A ROPE

For natural-fiber rope like sisal or cotton, you’ll whip the rope.

1. Cut off the part of the rope that is unraveling.

2. Cut a piece of strong string, dental floss or thin twine at least 8-10 inches long. Make a loop and place it on one end of the rope.

3. Wrap the string tightly around the rope several times.

4. When the whipping is as wide as the rope is thick, slip the end through the loop.

5. Pull the string ends tightly and cut them off.

HOW TO FUSE THE END OF A ROPE

For synthetic materials like nylon, fuse the rope. Rope and cord made from plastic or nylon will melt when exposed to high heat.

1. Cut away the frayed part of the rope.

2. Working in a well-ventilated area, hold each end of the rope a few inches above a lighter, match or candle to melt and fuse the strands together.

3. Let it cool off for a few minutes.

Be careful: Melted nylon is hot and sticky, so don’t touch the end until it’s completely cool.

"How to Whip and Fuse the Ends of Rope" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Your backpack and boots are the two pieces of gear you’ll use the most on the trail.

“A pack that fits poorly can make or break your trip,” says Ryan Wichelns, editor-in-chief of Trails Magazine, a lifelong backpacker and former Scout from Stillwater, New York.

“Buy one that fits your body and your gear.”

When shopping for a backpacking pack, the most important thing is to try some packs to see what works, he says. A pack might look cool online but be a bad fit. Everybody is shaped differently. To get the right size, measure your torso length and hip size.

Backpacking experts Ryan Wichelns and Jenn Cadorette.

THE RIGHT FIT

An expert at your local outdoor shop can help you find the best backpack. Some outdoor shops also sell used packs. If you can find one in good shape that fits, a used pack can be a great way to save a few bucks.

Put some weight in a pack and walk around the store for a few minutes. You’ll start to notice what fits your back, shoulders and hips best. Many backpacks have adjustable torso length. That is great for people who are still growing.

The weight of a loaded pack should rest on your hips, not pull on your shoulders. Once your pack is on, watch out. Your hip belt can slide down and compress your butt, back and leg muscles, which keeps them from working right.

“Hip muscles come up higher than you think,” says Jenn Cadorette, a physical therapist and thru-hiker. “Put your hands on your waist and find your hip bones. Your backpack hip belt should stay on those bones.”

PACKING YOUR BACKPACK

How you pack your backpack is as critical as your pack’s fit.

“Pack your heaviest gear close to your back,” Cadorette says. “That will help you stay balanced when you’re hiking.”

Packs are measured in liters. For backpacking, you’ll likely need a pack that’s 35 liters or larger. Buy a pack that’s big enough to carry what you need, but not one that’s too big, or you’ll carry extra pack weight and be tempted to overload.

A versatile pack will have lash points for strapping gear on the outside, though you first want to focus on the inside. For winter backpacking, you’ll need more space for a warmer sleeping bag, extra food and clothing. Less weight is easier and more fun to walk with, but every backpacker must decide what non essential to bring and what to leave at home.

Check Scout Life’s outdoor essential checklists at go.scoutlife.org/essentials

Our favorite backpacks have features that make hiking easier. Hip belt pockets let you grab snacks, your phone and sunscreen without stopping. If your pack doesn’t come with one, you can get one that slides over your belt.

A good pack also lets you drink without taking off the pack, whether it’s a built-in space for a hydration reservoir or easy-to-reach place for a water bottle. The pack should have at least one pocket to organize gear you want to access fast, like water treatment gear, pocketknife and flashlight.

Another nice feature is a lid — or a “brain,” as Wichelns calls it — that can fully unclip so you can easily take your essentials with you into your tent instead of bringing in the whole pack.

Once you’re home, empty and dry your pack. Spot wash the pack with dishwashing soap and a sponge. Maintain your gear, and it’ll last longer.

THE BEST BACKPACKS

Granite Gear Perimeter 50

The Granite Gear Perimeter 50 ($250, granitegear.com) is a simple minimalist pack with loads of great features. The adjustable torso and hip belt fit many people and make the pack one you can grow into. It comes in regular and long torso lengths. The padded, contoured hip belt has big pockets for your gear. Granite Gear’s suspension system is comfy, with articulated, adjustable shoulder straps. The rolltop pack has two stuff pockets on the front and a zippered lid. A bottom flap holds your sleeping pad or tent. A zippered pocket in the flap stores your wet rainfly away from your other gear. Everything else goes in the main compartment. Once your pack is loaded, compression straps cinch it down so you can use this pack comfortably for weekend hikes or bigger projects, like a thru-hike. The Perimeter will last a long time; it’s made from Robic high-tenacity nylon, which is 50% stronger than regular nylon.

Forclaz MT900 UL 50+50L

At 2.9 lbs. and 60 liters, the ultra-versatile Forclaz MT900 UL 50+10L ($189, decathlon.com) is one of the most affordable large-capacity packs. With seven pockets, a hydration reservoir sleeve and clips for trekking poles, it’s ready for any trip. The MT900 lets you access gear through the top or the full side-zip. It’s a great pack for sweaty hikers because a mesh hammock lifts it off your back for airflow, and the shoulder straps and hip belt are highly perforated and covered in mesh for maximum airflow. Side cinching cords take some time to get used to, but ample lashing points and an included rain cover made this pack a top choice. So does the 10-year warranty.

REI Kid’s Tarn

You might find a kid’s pack fits you better than a pack sized for adults. The REI Kid’s Tarn ($119-$165, rei.com) has the quality and features of an adult pack but in sizes made for kids. The 40-liter version, weighing 2 lbs., 10 ounces, is for torsos down to 12 inches. It has enough internal space to suit smaller kids. For bigger kids and longer trips, the 65-liter Tarn, at 3 lbs., 14 oz., has a traditional design with a zippered sleeping bag compartment and top access. The 65-liter pack has dual oversized water bottle pockets, a hydration sleeve and a vented front shove pocket. Its removable lid has backpack straps, so you can leave your big pack behind for short hikes. This pack’s hip belt has a stiffener and thick foam to take the bite out of carrying a heavy load. The harness uses channeled foam for airflow to keep you from getting too sweaty.

Kelty Asher 55

The Kelty Asher 55 ($139, kelty.com), at 3 lbs., 2 oz., has many of the same features as more expensive packs: an adjustable torso, big water bottle pockets, separate sleeping bag access and front-of-the-pack places for strapping overflow gear, but it doesn’t have a removable lid or hip belt pockets. Still, it’s great if you’re on a tight budget. The broad hip belt and airflow back also make this a great first pack.

Nomad RT 50

With a roll-top design, the Nomad RT 50 ($230, alpsmountaineering.com) allows you to compress or expand your pack’s main compartment volume, increasing your overall space to 60 liters or pressing it down to 40 liters. At nearly 5 lbs., the pack is covered in straps and attachment points for fastening gear. This pack comes in 38- and 75-liter versions, too. ALPS Mountaineering offers gear discounts exclusive to Scouts through its Hiker Direct program. For the RT 50 pack, Scouts can get up to 40% off through the program.

BSA Mountaineer 70L backpack

If you have a long gear checklist, the BSA Mountaineer 70L backpack ($120, scoutshop.org) has room to fit all your gear. This 4 lb., 70-liter pack features designated spaces for your sleeping bag, hydration bladder and gear you need to access quickly. You’ll have plenty of storage with its outside mesh pockets, easy-access side pockets and hip belt pockets — plus there’s a place to attach your trekking poles. The pack is designed to feel lighter with its reinforced lumbar support system and adjustable straps.

"Pick the Best Backpack With These Expert Buying Tips" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

When you’re scuba diving, you obviously can’t talk to others underwater. That’s why it’s important to know hand signals so you can communicate. They’re helpful both above and below the surface. Here are a few that you will learn as part of a Scuba BSA experience:

“Stop”: Hand up, palm facing the person you’re communicating with.

“OK”: Make the letter “O” with your thumb and index finger. If you’re wearing a glove, use your four fingers to make an “O” by touching them to your thumb. This is not interchangeable with a thumbs-up.

“Go up”: Make a thumbs-up and motion upward.

“Go down”: Make a thumbs-down.

“Level off at this depth”: Place your hand flat with your palm down and move your hand side to side.

“Buddy up”: Form fists, extend your index fingers and hold those fingers side by side.

“Go that way”: Make a thumbs-up and gesture with your thumb pointing in the direction of travel. This can also be communicated by holding your hand flat with your palm facing the side with all five fingers pointing in the specific direction.

“Low on air”: Place a closed fist against your chest.

“Out of air”: Make a cutting motion across your neck.

“Share air”: Make a flat hand and motion back and forth between your mouth and your buddy’s mouth.

"How to Communicate Underwater When Scuba Diving" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The underwater world is magical. With snorkel or scuba gear, you can observe fish, coral and other aquatic life in this wondrous environment.

Snorkeling offers the most affordable and accessible way to explore, and with some basic gear, anyone can do it. California-based scuba instructor Darrick Cusick has dived in almost every state. He says you can get started in snorkeling for less than $150.

“Save your allowance, and make sure you enjoy the activity before you invest,” says Cusick, a master scuba diver trainer.

Scuba diving requires certification and costly specialized gear, most of which you’ll want to rent until you’ve stopped growing.

Review the Scuba BSA program, which details the safety and training you’ll need to do this advanced aquatic activity. You can try it at some council camps or Sea Base, the BSA high-adventure base in Florida. Your unit can dive independently, but only under the supervision of adults with a divemaster or higher rating.

SNORKELING GEAR

A good mask lets you see underwater. Use a traditional mask, not a full-face version. To test if a mask fits, press it against your face without using the head strap and breathe in through your nose. The mask should suction to your face. No air should seep in around the seal once it’s suctioned on. If air comes in, water will, too. Cusick recommends the CRESSI FRAMELESS ZS1 or Z1 (both $60, cressiusa.com), depending on your face size.

Next, you need a snorkel, which is a tube with a mouthpiece, to help you breathe when your face is in the water. The mouthpiece goes in your mouth, and the tube clips into a holder attached to your mask so the tube’s end can stick out of the water.

Dry snorkels are the most user-friendly, because they don’t let water in — even if a wave washes over your head or you dive underwater. Try the BLUE REEF CORTES DRY SNORKEL ($15, scuba.com).

Fins propel you through the water. Cusick says to keep it simple with adjustable strap fins that are light, 18 inches or less, and easy to move. One good option is the TUSA SNORKELING FIN ($40, tusa.com).

In tropical waters, a bathing suit and T-shirt or rash guard to prevent sunburn are all you need.

For colder water, use a warm-when-wet insulating wetsuit. The thicker the wetsuit, the warmer it is. When the water measures between 60° and 75°F, use a 4- to 6-millimeter wetsuit. For 45- to 60-degree water, choose a 7mm wetsuit. In water colder than that, you’ll need a dry suit and other cold water-specific gear.

Full wetsuits are ankle length with full arms. “Shorties” — great for warmer water — have short sleeves and legs. Cusick recommends HENDERSON WETSUITS, which are available in kids’ and adult sizes (starting at $73, depending on style and size, hendersonusa.com).

SCUBA DIVING GEAR

For scuba diving, you’ll need a buoyancy compensator device (BCD) and air tanks. You’ll also need a regulator, which is the mouthpiece you breathe through underwater. Most new divers rent these on location as well as other equipment. And, most important, you’ll have to take an open-water diver certification course, which is part of the Scuba Diving merit badge.

"How to Buy Snorkeling Gear for an Underwater Adventure" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sickness-causing microorganisms in the water, called “pathogens,” are top reasons hikers bail on a big trip, says Chris Casserly with Outdoor Gear Exchange, an outdoor sports store in Burlington, Vermont. Casserly has conquered New Hampshire’s 4,000-foot peaks in both summer and winter, and has been camping and backpacking in the Northeast for the last 15 years.

“Take water treatment seriously,” Casserly says. “Getting sick on the trails is no fun.”

Getting diarrhea on the trail is one thing, but some illnesses can linger for months. Most nasty pathogens come from animal poop in the water.

In North America, these nasties include parasites, protozoa and bacteria, like giardia, cryptosporidium, e-coli and salmonella.

HOW TO TREAT WATER

Treat all your water, including melted snow. Don’t assume water is clean, even if it looks clear. Choose your water source carefully. Running water is the best, and a murky puddle is the worst, Casserly says.

Fill your bottle from the middle of the source. Skim the surface with your hand to remove insects, leaves and other floaters. Keep particles down by not disturbing the water as you’re filling up. A rainstorm also stirs up particles in a water source, so avoid gathering water right after a storm.

Runoff is often the dirtiest water. If the water you plan to filter and drink isn’t clear, use a prefilter. Prefilters are available for many water filters.

Boiling water also kills waterborne bad guys. Boil water for one minute at sea level, or for three minutes when you’re above 6,500 feet.

Use hand sanitizer after you treat your water. If you get untreated water on your hands, your hands are now dirty. Keep track of dirty and clean bottles, too. If you fill a dirty water bottle with clean water, the water is dirty and needs to be treated again.

Take good care of your gear. Don’t drop your filter. The impact can crack the filter fibers, preventing water flow.

“Before you hit the trail, test your filter on a bottle filled from your kitchen tap,” Casserly says. “If it’s not flowing or has major leaks, troubleshoot the issue with the manufacturer’s help, or bring the filter to your local shop. If your filter is leaking from the side or if the water isn’t flowing, it might be time to replace your filter cartridge.”

Clean and dry your water treatment gear after you get home from a trip. Most filters come with a backflush option. Backflush your filter with clean water and dry it before you store it.

CHEMICAL TREATMENT

The cheapest and easiest way to kill pathogens in your water is a chemical treatment. You can use iodine or chlorine dioxide, which come in tablets or a liquid added directly to your bottle. Effective brands are POTABLE AQUA ($10 for 50 tablets, pharmacalway.com) or AQUAMIRA ($15 for a 1 oz. bottle, aquamira.com).

Chemical treatments are compact, light and can work in as little as 30 minutes. However, they don’t filter matter from your water, so if your water is cloudy, you should prefilter it.

SQUEEZE FILTERS

Casserly’s favorite water treatment is a squeeze filter like the SAWYER SQUEEZE filtration system ($29, sawyer.com), which screws onto the included flasks or a plastic water bottle. Squeeze filters are ideal for individual use. They’re light and inexpensive, and you can drink the water immediately through the filter.

Another top choice is LIFESTRAW’S PEAK SERIES COLLAPSIBLE SQUEEZE 650 ML BOTTLE WITH FILTER ($38, lifestraw.com), which has a sturdy flask with a filter inside, capable of lasting up to 2,000 liters.

STRAW FILTERS

There’s also the LIFESTRAW PEAK SERIES STRAW ($25, lifestraw.com). Not only does it allow you to drink from the source, but you can also attach it at the end of a hydration hose, screw it onto a standard narrow mouth plastic water bottle or connect it to a gravity filter. But you can’t use it at the water source to easily fill other bottles. Still, it’s a good, light (2.3 oz.) option when you’re backpacking trails with a lot of water along the way.

GRAVITY FILTERS

To filter water for big groups, get a gravity filter. PLATYPUS GRAVITYWORKS ($126 for the 2-liter version, $150 for 6 liters, platy.com) is a hanging system with two bags connected by a hose with an inline filter. Using gravity, water flows from the dirty water bag to the clean, filtered one.

Gravity systems clean large amounts of water and some can filter around 1,500 liters before the filter needs to be replaced.

PUMP FILTERS

Pump filters are best for filtering cloudy water. Most have a prefilter to screen out sediment, which can clog a squeeze filter quickly. Pumps are pricey and heavier, but they’re reliable. Most have a carbon filter that makes water taste better, like the MSR MINIWORKS EX MICROFILTER ($120, msrgear.com) and the KATADYN VARIO FILTER ($120, katadyngroup.com).

If you pack a pump, bring a backup chemical treatment just in case.

UV PURIFIERS

To eliminate viruses in the water, you’ll need a purifier, not just a filter. Viruses are smaller than bacteria, and a filter can’t trap them. Chemical treatments can kill viruses, and so does ultraviolet light, which KATADYN’S STERIPEN ULTRA UV WATER PURIFIER ($130, katadyngroup.com) uses.

With an ultraviolet light purifier, place the tip of the purifier in a liter of water and stir for about 90 seconds. Ultraviolet purification works best in sediment-free water, but its advantage comes in cold weather. In winter, pumps and filters can freeze, but an ultraviolet light purifier won’t.

WATER TREATMENT GLOSSARY

WATER FILTERS use microscopic pores to strain out nasty stuff like bacteria from water sources. For most backcountry trips in the U.S., you don’t need more than a filter.

PRE-FILTERS are used to remove large, visible particles before you start the filtering process — particularly important in cloudy water.

WATER PURIFIERS eliminate bacteria, too, but also use chemicals or ultraviolet light to kill viruses, which are too tiny for most filters to remove. Purifiers become more necessary in the deep backcountry or while traveling to some other countries.

"How to Treat Your Water to Stay Healthy in the Backcountry" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Hats are among the most underappreciated pieces of gear. They can let people know if you’re a fan of a certain sports team, what brands you like or that you’re a Scout. More practically, they can protect you from the sun, cold, rain and bugs (and bad hair days).

Hats keep your hair out of your eyes, absorb sweat and provide shade when there is none. A winter hat can help keep you warm — you can lose up to 10% of your body heat if your head is uncovered.

Pick a hat that looks and feels good to you and is ideal for the conditions where you’ll wear it.

GEAR GUY RECOMMENDS 7 AWESOME HATS

Some places can get really buggy, so a hat with insect protection will make your time outside a lot more enjoyable. We like OUTDOOR RESEARCH’S BUG BUCKET hat ($42, outdoorresearch.com). It’s a bucket-style brimmed hat with an integrated no-see-um head net. When you don’t need the net, it rolls up and tucks away while still providing UPF 40 sun protection.

For a day in the sun, stay in the shade by wearing a wide-brimmed hat like DAKINE’S PINDO STRAW HAT ($32, dakine.com). It has an elastic interior headband and a wicking polyester underbrim, which comes in lots of fun colors and patterns.

Express yourself with SKIDA’S ALPINE HAT ($38, skida.com). This fleece-lined beanie comes in tons of colors and prints. It’s breathable but warm, and if you’re sensitive to Merino wool, this one won’t itch.

You know those days when it’s so hot, it feels like you might melt? Beat the heat with NATHAN’S RUNCOOL ICE RUN HAT ($25, nathansports.com). This visored lid has secret side pockets for ice cubes to help cool you down. The hat’s built-in wicking sweatband keeps sweat out of your eyes.

Take the chill out of any activity with SMARTWOOL’S MERINO BEANIE ($25, smartwool.com). It’s super low bulk with low-profile seams for comfort, and it stays warm even if it gets wet.

Rain in the forecast? You can go full lobsterman with Helly Hansen’s polyester drawstring SVOLVAER SOU’WESTER RAIN HAT ($25, hhworkwear.com). The PVC fabric is completely waterproof, and the brim design keeps water from dripping down the back of your neck.

For a stylish brimmed hat, MELIN sets the standard for water-resistant baseball caps ($69, melin.com), and they come in dozens of colors, with a size and shape for everyone.

"Protect Your Head With These Functional, Fashionable Hats" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Campfire building is an important camping skill, but do not be careless with a campfires. Overuse of campfires and an increasing demand for firewood has degraded the natural appearance of many areas.

Campfires should be built only in certain places, constantly supervised and doused completely. The best place to make one is in established sites that land managers have constructed, like within a metal ring, grill or stone fireplace.

If your campsite does not have a place already built, you should use a fire mound or fire pan to protect the ground. Heat from a campfire can char the ground, blacken rocks and sterilize soil. Vegetation might have a hard time growing where a campfire has been.

To help minimize your fire’s impact, collect mineral soil, like silt, clay or sand. Lay down a tarp or ground cloth and form a soil mound on top of it at least 6 inches thick and 18 inches in diameter. The soil will insulate the ground from the fire’s heat, and the tarp can help with cleanup.

Alternatively, you can use a fire pan, which is a metal pan with sides that are at least 3 inches tall. These can be barbecue grills or aluminum roasting pans. Place your pan atop several inches of mineral soil to protect the ground.

Review fire-building instructions in official BSA publications before making your fire.

"How to Prevent Fire Damage When Building a Campfire" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Mosquitoes are annoying, and they can be dangerous, too. They are responsible for transmitting blood-borne illnesses and serious diseases.

Here are a few tips to keep mosquitoes away:

• Wear insect repellent when you go outside. Look for products that contain either DEET or picaridin as the active ingredient.

• Wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt and a hat. If mosquitoes can’t find your skin, they can’t bite you.

• Wear light colors. Mosquitoes seem more attracted to dark colors.

• Mosquitoes are also attracted by some odors. Avoid fragrances in your soaps, shampoos and detergents.

• Avoid still or standing water. That’s where mosquitoes hatch.

Learn more about mosquito safety at go.scoutlife.org/mosquito

"5 Tips to Avoid Mosquito Bites" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Short answer: It depends.

The CDC’s Stay Safe During & After a Winter Storm page includes a section on what do you if you’re stranded in cold weather. Among the answers — Wrap your entire body, including your head, in extra clothing, blankets or newspapers; Stay awake, you will be less vulnerable to cold-related health problems; As you sit, keep moving your arms and legs to improve your circulation and stay warmer; — and they also warn, “Do not eat snow because it will lower your body temperature.”

But that’s assuming that you’re stranded in cold weather.

What if you’re just in your own backyard, with easy access to a heated room and warm food and beverages?

Again, it depends.

When’s the last time someone put down pesticide on your lawn? How is the air pollution in your area?

The safest way to get water from snow is to melt it in a pot over a stove, and then bring it to a boil for a few minutes to kill any harmful bacteria.

Can you eat snow? If you can find freshly fallen snow that is clean of dirt and debris and animal droppings, and if no one has put out toxic fertilizer or pesticides, and if the pollution in your area isn’t too bad, then the answer is “most likely, in small amounts, yes.”

Catching a few snowflakes on your tongue? That’s probably OK. Making ice cream out of snow? Not recommended.

Whatever you do, just make sure it isn’t yellow.

"Is It OK to Eat Snow?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Dutch ovens make baking at camp easy and expand your menu options. You can make biscuits, cornbread, pizza, lasagna, stew and a whole lot of desserts.

A Scout favorite is peach cobbler. Here’s how to make Philmont Ranger Cobbler:

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 large (28-ounce) cans of peaches
• 2 cups of dry biscuit mix
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon

Heat a Dutch oven over a bed of coals. Pour the juice from one can of peaches into the oven. Use the juice from the other can in place of water to stir into biscuit mix to make a dough. Put the peaches from both cans into the oven. Add the sugar and cinnamon, and bring to a boil.

Carefully drop spoonfuls of biscuit dough onto the hot peach mixture. Put the lid on the Dutch oven, and set the oven over 10-12 glowing briquettes. Place another 18-20 briquettes on the lid, and let the cobbler bake about 20 minutes until the biscuits are golden brown.

"Use a Dutch Oven to Make Philmont Ranger Cobbler" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK

Winter camping is a great way to have fun outside. It’ll also help you learn to stay warm and dry when you’re out in the elements.

“Everyone hates being cold,” says Kristin Arnold, American Mountain Guides Association guide and trainer. “You can repurpose a lot of the gear you use for three-season camping for winter camping. You don’t need to buy all new gear.”

STAYING WARM OUTDOORS

Arnold’s top tip for staying warm is to layer wool, fleece, down and synthetic clothing you already own so that if you sweat, the fabric wicks the moisture away from your body. You can fine-tune your temperature by taking off layers.

“Avoid cotton,” Arnold says. “It freezes when it gets wet. Wear wool socks. Always wear a hat. Once you’re cold, it takes more energy to get warm. Maintaining body temperature is more efficient.”

ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOES

DEALING WITH THE ENVIRONMENT

For your first winter camping adventure, start with an overnighter and build up to a multiday trip. When there’s snow on the ground, shovel or stomp it to create a flat surface for your tent. This will make sleeping more comfortable. Stakes pull out in the snow, so instead, tie stuff sacks filled with snow or use sticks placed parallel with the ground to your guylines and bury them.

Place blocks of snow around the outside of your vestibule to block the wind. If you live in avalanche country, avoid camping near open trees and open slopes where there could be a slide.

EAT AND DRINK!

“Have a plan, tell people where you’re going and don’t forget the snacks,” Arnold says. “In winter, eating and drinking are key to reducing the chance of frostbite — and to having maximum fun.”

Bring food that’s easy to prepare. Dehydrated meals are perfect for winter camping because meal prep is simply boiling water, and there’s little clean up. Hot drinks are the best when you’re winter camping. Another pro tip from Arnold: If you have to pee, don’t wait. Holding your pee can make you cold.

SLEEP WARM

You’ll also want a sleeping bag rated for the coldest temperatures you’ll experience (or colder). If your bag isn’t quite warm enough, add a sleeping bag liner, double up bags if you have more than one and wear all your layers.

Anything outside your sleeping bag will likely be moist in the morning from frozen condensation. If you want to dry clothing overnight, place it between your bag and pad. Turn your boots upside-down in your tent so the insides stay dry. Open your tent vents before you go to bed. Your breath will freeze at night and make the inside of the tent frosty, which will make it feel like it’s snowing inside.

To stay warm while you sleep, fill a Nalgene water bottle ($17) with hot water before bed and tuck it into your sleeping bag, too. If the bottle is too hot, slide it inside a sock.

THE GEAR

MUCKBOOTS KIDS’ ELEMENT CAMO

For winter camping, you need insulated waterproof boots that are high enough to keep out the snow. MUCKBOOTS (starting around $110 a pair, muckbootcompany.com) makes highly insulated, high-traction boots rated to 40 below zero. They’re great, especially for a weekend campout. Insulated hiking boots work, too. For longer trips, consider winter boots with a removable liner that you can take out and keep in your sleeping bag overnight. That way, your feet will stay warm after you put your boots on in the morning.

ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOE KIT

In deep snow, skis or snowshoes are essential. Both keep you from punching through soft snow, which is tiring and makes the trail terrible for other travelers. If you can walk, you can snowshoe. Try ALPTREK’S PEAK SNOWSHOE KIT ($180, alptrekgear.com), which comes with a set of aluminum trekking poles with winter baskets and a carry bag.

GSI’S PINNACLE FOUR-SEASON STOVE

If you have a canister stove, bring an extra fuel canister for winter camping and warm it next to your body. If your stove sputters out, turn it off and swap canisters. We like GSI’S PINNACLE FOUR-SEASON STOVE ($80, gsioutdoors.com) paired with GSI’s winter-optimized isobutane fuel, which can be used with any canister stove.

MSR’S WHISPERLITE UNIVERSAL STOVE

A white gas stove is the most dependable for freezing weather. MSR’s tried-and-true WHISPERLITE UNIVERSAL STOVE ($200, msrgear.com) works with both canister fuel and white gas. Learn about BSA chemical fuels and equipment safety guidelines at go.scoutlife.org/fuel

EUREKA’S EL CAPITAN 2 OUTFITTER TENT

A three-season tent can work in winter if there’s no snow in the forecast. A four-season tent has the best weather protection and the best moisture management. Eureka’s heavy-duty wind- and rain-shedding EL CAPITAN 2 OUTFITTER TENT ($260, eurekacamping.johnsonoutdoors.com) is one of the most affordable options.

BIG AGNES’ BENCHMARK 0

If you’re looking for a winter sleeping bag, consider BIG AGNES’ BENCHMARK 0 ($160, bigagnes.com). It’s one of the most affordable, backpackable, high-quality zero-degree bags. Made from high-loft synthetic with a water-repellent shell, it’s oh-so-warm.

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR’S BISHOP PASS 0

You’ll pay more for a down bag, but down is more packable, lighter and has a cozy warmth. MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR’S BISHOP PASS 0 ($325, mountainhardwear.com) is a toasty mummy bag with a spacious footbox.

NEMO’S SWITCHBACK

If you already have an insulated sleeping pad, you don’t need to buy another one. But do add a closed-cell foam mat to whatever you’re already sleeping on to increase the R-value, which describes how insulative the mat is. Try NEMO’S SWITCHBACK ($45-$55, nemoequipment.com), which uses a thermal reflective layer and heat-trapping depressions to boost your current pad’s warmth.

DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK

A good backpack is key to getting gear to your winter camping spot. You might be able to make your summer backpack work, though winter gear is often bulkier. DECATHLON’S FORCLAZ MT500 AIR BACKPACK ($149-$159, decathlon.com) offers 55-liter and 60-liter versions, both of which are adjustable to give you 10 more liters of space. They feel good to carry even when fully loaded.

NORTH FACE’S THERMOBALL TRACTION BOOTIES

If there’s one thing extra you might want to pack, make it a cozy pair of slippers with a good sole. THE NORTH FACE’S THERMOBALL TRACTION BOOTIES ($69, thenorthface.com) are comfortable and keep you warm out in the snow.

"How to Gear Up for Winter" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Trekking along a mountain in the snow can bring great rewards, but it can also bring great dangers. Like avalanches.

Avalanches are a serious concern for all travelers whose outings take them into snowy, mountainous regions. An avalanche occurs when snow breaks loose on a slope, or when a cornice of snow collapses and tumbles down. Large avalanches can carry away trees and tents, and even a small snowslide can bury a person caught in its path.

Your greatest protection against avalanches is knowing where, how, and when they are likely to happen and then planning routes that take you elsewhere. Indicators of danger include the following:

• Signs of previous avalanches, like lines or cracks in the snow, or damaged trees. Where avalanches have happened before, they are likely to happen again.
• Steep terrain. Avalanches often happen on slopes greater than 30 degrees. If you’re a skier, that’s a black diamond-level slope.
• New snow. It takes a while for fresh snowfall to stabilize. If you step on snow and hear a “whumpf” sound, the snow underneath isn’t stable.
• Clear variations in snow layers. A weak layer in the snowpack can cause the layers above to break loose and slide.
• Weather. Changes in air temperature, especially rising near or above freezing, can trigger an avalanche.
• Sounds that suggest cracking or settling of the snowpack.

STEPS TO HELP YOU PREPARE FOR TRAVEL IN STEEP, SNOWY TERRAIN

• Complete an avalanche-safety training course taught by qualified experts.
• Check local avalanche-forecasting networks (operated by weather bureaus and land management agencies) before setting out. The most useful networks are updated at least once a day.
• Choose travel companions who understand the danger of avalanches and will do their part to manage the risk.
• Carry avalanche safety equipment and know how to use it. Battery-powered beacons worn by each group member emit a radio signal that can be picked up by the beacons of others.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU’RE CAUGHT IN AN AVALANCHE

If you get caught in an avalanche, ditch your backpack and skis and begin “swimming” in the snow to keep yourself upright and your head above the surface. As the snow slows and settles, push snow away from your face to create an air pocket so you can breathe.

Should others in your party be caught in an avalanche, keep your eye on them as long as you can, and note the exact place you saw them last. Hopefully, they’ll be wearing avalanche beacons so that you can recover them quickly. If not, listen for their voices, probe the area with ski poles from which you’ve removed the baskets, and don’t give up hope. Sturdy short-handled shovels made of plastic or metal can prove invaluable for freeing avalanche victims.

People have survived under the snow for 30 minutes before being rescued. Treat avalanche victims for shock and hypothermia.

BE AWARE OF AVALANCHE DANGER!

• Falling rocks pose a danger to unwary backcountry travelers. Loose stones at the base of a cliff might indicate a likelihood of rockfall. If you hear a rock clattering down, or if you accidentally kick one loose, shout “Rock!” to warn those below to take cover.
• As with any trek adventure risks, don’t be reluctant to change your plans or postpone a trip when avalanche danger is high. The mountains will still be there for you after conditions have improved.

"How to Watch Out for Avalanches in Snowy, Mountainous Terrain" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Opinel’s No.07 My First Opinel Folding Knife ($17, opinel-usa.com) is sharp but without a point. The 3.5-inch blade is made from Sandvik stainless steel, and it holds an edge. The outdoors version ($26, scoutshop.org) also has a built-in whistle to call for help in an emergency.

With proper training, many Scouts can use a knife — a valuable tool for camping or working on a whittling project. A multitool provides multiple blades and other tools. Examples are saws, drivers and even forks and spoons.

A knife is not a toy. If you’re a Bear, Webelos or Arrow of Light Cub Scout, earn your Whittling Chip. If you’re in Scouts BSA, earn your Totin’ Chip. Then you will know how to safely carry and use one of these tools.

The CRKT Minimalist Drop Point ($36, crkt.com) has a 2-inch fixed blade with a tough handle that’s comfortable to hold. The carbon-steel blade sharpens quickly, and the half-ounce durable thermoplastic sheath has multiple mounting options.

KNIFE BASICS

There are several types of knives.

All-purpose folding pocketknives are common in Scouting. Most come with tools such as a can opener, screwdriver, tweezers and, of course, knife blades — all in one compact package. Though they can be extremely handy, a downside is the knife blade doesn’t lock into place, so it may fold up on your hand while you’re using it.

Lockbacks are simple folding knives with a single blade that can be locked. So you get the benefits of a sturdy fixed blade-style knife but in a convenient pocket-size package that can be folded open with just one hand.

Scouts have been using Victorinox Swiss Army knives for a long time. The Victorinox Swiss Army Huntsman ($50, victorinox.com), a multitool with first-aid functions, has a suite of transitional tools, including a can opener, scissors and tweezers — plus large and small blades, saw, awl, leather punch and more. It pretty much has everything you need.

Fixed blades, are no-nonsense knives with a beefy handle and stationary blade. If you need a knife to accomplish the everyday tasks you come across in the outdoors, from whittling on things and cutting materials to spreading peanut butter on your sandwiches, a short, no more than four-inch-long, fixed-blade knife will accomplish all of that. Avoid large sheath knives; they are heavy and awkward to carry.

You’ll also find specialty knives such as river rescue knives with serrated blades for slicing rope, whittling knives designed for carving wood, and multitools, which are compact, handheld tool boxes. Most are built around a pair of folding pliers.

The Leatherman Sidekick ($70, leatherman.com) is a stainless-steel toolbox on your belt. The 7-ounce Sidekick has spring-action needle-nose and standard pliers, wire cutters and stripper, knife and serrated knife, saw, ruler, can and bottle openers, wood and metal file and three screwdrivers.

FOLDING OR FIXED KNIFE? KNOW THE POLICY

Knife policies vary among packs, troops, councils and camps when it comes to what blade types and lengths are allowed. Learn your unit’s policy before buying a blade of any kind. When it comes to types of knives, the Guide to Safe Scouting recommends “choosing the right equipment for the job at hand.”

BLADES

Most blades are made from strong and durable stainless steel. Blades are available in straight edge, serrated (jagged like a saw) or both. Bigger is not always better. A small, sharp four-inch-or-smaller blade can cut just as well as bigger knives but is much safer to handle and easier to maneuver in tight spots.

Stansport’s Folding Knife, Fork, Spoon Multitool ($15, stansport.com) has more than eating utensils. The tool, which separates into wo so you can use fork and spoon together, also has a can opener, corkscrew and chisel all in a belt-ready nylon carrying pouch.

PRICE AND QUALITY

You don’t have to spend a fortune to get a quality tool. Often, an inexpensive knife will do everything you want it to do. As prices go up, you’ll see small improvements in the quality and size of the blade.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

Knives and multitools can last your whole life if you care for them. Wipe your pocketknife with a damp cloth to clean it, and add a drop of food-safe oil at pivot points to keep it at its best. Use a sharpener to keep your blade sharp.

“A sharp knife will work for you, while a dull one works against you,” says Kyle Owens of Work Sharp, a company that makes sharpeners.

A great knife deserves an equally great sharpener. Work Sharp’s Pocket Knife Sharpener ($15, worksharptools.com) is small enough to stash in your pack, with a diamond sharpening plate and ceramic honing rod that have built-in angle guides so you can get a perfect edge on your pocketknife.

CARRY IT SAFELY

The smartest, safest place to stash your knife is in an easy-access spot in your backpack. You’re asking for trouble by wearing a fixed-blade knife on your belt. If you fall, the knife could rotate inward and you could land right on the blade.

At only 3.1 ounces, Gerber’s Armbar Trade ($50, gerbergear.com) has eight essential tools, including a knife, saw, awl, driver, pry bar, hammer and bottle opener, packed into a surprisingly small and effective pocket clip tool.

TREAT YOUR KNIFE WITH RESPECT

Treating pocket knives with respect not only ensures your safety, but also keeps others safe. Here are a few major no-no’s:

• Throwing a knife
• Using a dull or dirty blade
• Handing a knife to someone blade first
• Cutting while others are within your “safety circle” (arm’s length)
• Carving into something that doesn’t belong to you
• Cutting toward your body

Using a knife requires responsibility. Bear Scouts can start carrying a pocketknife after completing the Whittling Chip requirements. Members of Scouts BSA must earn their Totin’ Chip, which also gives them the right to carry and use axes and saws.

"How to Buy a Good Pocketknife or Multitool" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You’re going on your first camping trip or backpacking trek. What should you bring? Every packing list starts with these 10 items, and they’re called “essentials” for a reason. Then you’ll want to add other items depending on the outing.

• Download a checklist for a warm-weather outing
• Download a checklist for a cold-weather outing
• Download a checklist for a paddling trip
• Download a checklist for a bicycling trip

THE 10 SCOUT OUTDOOR ESSENTIALS

The Scout Basic Essentials call for the following ten items. These items can help you stay comfortable, safe and prepared:

1. A pocketknife or multitool can be handy in a wide variety of situations. Use it to cut a cord or pieces of food, whittle a stake, tighten a screw and more. Keep your knife sharp and clean, and don’t forget to first earn your Whittling Chip (for older Cub Scouts) or Totin’ Chip (for Boy Scouts).

2. A first-aid kit can be a lifesaver. Literally. A few items will allow you to treat scratches, blisters and other minor injuries. They should also allow you to provide initial care while waiting for help for more serious injuries.

3. Bring extra clothing to match the weather. Temperatures can change during a trip. Have the clothing you need for warm days and cooler nights. Multiple layers are better than a single massive jacket, because layered clothing is adaptable to a wide range of temperatures.

4. Rain gear is very important. Rain can come in a hurry, and getting your clothes drenched is more than just uncomfortable, it can lead to hypothermia, a potentially fatal condition. Have your rain gear easily accessible.

5. A lightweight flashlight, headlamp or a rugged penlight is important for finding your way in the dark. Bring extra batteries, too.

6. Trail food is good for maintaining your energy. Make your own trail mix, bring a small bag of granola and pack a handful of energy bars. Bring more than you think you’ll need in case you get stuck (or lost) in the woods.

7. Water can prevent dehydration, heat exhaustion and heatstroke. Drink plenty of fluids, even in cold weather. Use a lightweight, unbreakable container with a secure lid.

8. Matches and fire starters may be used to light fires for heat, or for signaling for help. Store matches or lighters in resealable plastic bags. You may not plan to need an open fire, but Be Prepared to build one in an emergency.

9. Sun protection might include sunblock, sunglasses, lip balm and a wide-brimmed hat. Look for an SPF of at least 30. Apply early in the day, and reapply often.

10. A map and compass are probably the most important tools you can carry in case you get lost. A topographic map will help you identify landmarks along the way. Review your route-finding skills before you leave so you’ll be sharp on the trail.

It’s a good idea to bring a daypack for your Scout Essentials, so you can grab it and go if you’re hiking during the campout.

CLOTHING

You should also pack clothing matched to the season. Check the weather for where you’re going to camp. It might be warm where you live, but the temperatures might be dropping where you’re going.

SLEEPING

Here are some items you may need at night, depending on the outing:

• Tent
• Sleeping bag
• Sleeping pad
• Ground cloth
• Pillow

KEEPING CLEAN

Here are some hygiene and toiletry items you may want to pack, depending on the outing:

• Toothbrush
• Toothpaste
• Dental floss
• Soap
• Comb
• Waterless hand cleaner
• Small towel
• Washcloth
• Toilet paper
• Trowel for digging cathole latrines

COOKING AND EATING

Here are some cooking and eating items you may want to pack, depending on the outing:

• Mess kit
• Large plastic cereal bowl or kitchen storage bowl
• Spoon
• Cup or insulated mug
• Water treatment system
• Backpacking stove with fuel
• Large pot and lid (2.5- or 3-quart size)
• Small pot and lid (1.5- or 2-quart size)
• Lightweight frying pan (10 to 12 inches in diameter)
• For melting snow, add 1 large pot and lid (6 to 10 quarts)
• Hot-pot tongs

EXTRAS

Here are some extras you may want to pack, depending on the outing:

• Watch
• Camera
• Notebook
• Pen or pencil
• Sunglasses
• Small musical instrument
• Swimsuit
• Gloves
• Whistle
• Nylon cord
• Insect repellent
• Repair kit
• Hiking stick or trekking poles
• Binoculars
• Fishing gear
• Animal identification books, plant keys, geological studies, star charts or other guides

For car-camping where your campsite won’t be far from where you park, you can carry everything in a duffle bag. If you camp often, you’ll want to invest in a backpack so you can venture into the backcountry with all your gear.

"Every Packing List Starts With the 10 Scout Basic Outdoor Essentials" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you were to pull out a smartphone and open a maps app, it would show where you were and which direction you were facing. Can you get the same useful information without a digital aid? Absolutely. Grab a map. Better yet, get a compass, too.

You can orient a map by aligning it with the topography (the features it represents). Look for hills, trailheads and bodies of water, and hold the map so it matches the landscape around you. Most maps indicate which way is north. With your map matching your topography, you should know which direction you’re facing based on the map’s cardinal directions.

For better accuracy or if you don’t have easily identifiable landmarks near you, pull out your compass. Rotate the housing of the compass until north lines up with the direction-of-travel arrow on the baseplate. Place the long edge of the compass along the map’s border. Turn the compass and map together until the compass needle lines up inside the orienteering arrow.

Note that this method doesn’t account for declination, but the map should be oriented accurately enough for a general lay of the land.

"How to Use a Compass to Orient a Map and Find Your Way" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you pick a tent or tarp, these shelters will guard you from the elements.

Tents and tarps both have advantages. How you want to sleep, the environment and how you want to use it can all factor into your decision.

CAMPING TARP ADVANTAGES

“Tarps are lighter than tents, most are more versatile and a tarp can easily adjust to its surroundings,” says Charlie Ranahan with outdoor gear company Mountain Hardwear. “Most tarps have multiple attachment points, and they extend over a wider area than a tent, giving you and your friends more space to hang out and sleep.”

There’s more open air between you and the outdoors, which can be a pro or a con, depending on what you’re comfortable with. Tarps really let you feel one with nature. If the weather looks good, a tarp might be a perfect choice. But when it comes to tarps, they’re not all created equal.

“Camping tarps are mostly made from nylon or polyester with special coatings that keep out wind and weather,” Ranahan says. “A camping tarp will also be a lot quieter than a blue tarp or other hardware store tarp if it’s windy. It’ll dry faster and pack better, too.”

HOW TO PICK A TENT

Opt for a tent if you want to seal yourself from wind and weather, stay warmer and steer clear of creepy-crawlies. Backpackers should look at lightweight, packable tents.

Don’t get the smallest tent. Choose one with space for you and your friends in case it rains. A tent with two doors and vestibules, which are covered areas by the doors, lets you store your packs on one side and use the other to get in and out. A tent with one door and vestibule is likely lighter.

3 RECOMMENDED CAMPING TARPS

At 9.7 ounces, the Gossamer Gear Twinn Tarp ($149, gossamergear.com, 9.7 oz.) is one of the lightest tarps you can buy. It’s so small that it could pack into an insulated mug. Roughly 10-by-9 feet when opened, the high-tenacity nylon Twinn Tarp has bug net loops at each end and two side-wall tie-out points on each side. These options give this tarp tent-like qualities. It’s thin, tough and big enough to sleep two. It’s also small enough that even if you pack a tent, you might want to bring it along as a protected hangout space.

Hang the 12-by-12 Mountainsmith Mountain Shade Tarp ($70, mountainsmith.com, 1 lb. 14 oz.) from the trees or support it with your trekking poles, and you’ve got a durable waterproof shelter. It comes in a long, narrow carrying bag that’s easy to strap on the outside of a backpack. While it doesn’t have as many tie-down points as some other tarps, it has enough to get the job done. It comes with stakes.

Roughly 10-by-12 ½ feet when it’s set up, the Alps Ultralight Tarp Shelter ($100, alpsmountaineering.com, 1 lb. 3 oz.) packs to about the size of a Nalgene bottle. The tarp has a catenary cut, which means its edges are curved. That makes it more aerodynamic in the wind and cuts down on noise since the edges tend to flap less. The cut also helps keep the tarp light. 1 lb., 3 oz.

3 LIGHTWEIGHT CAMPING TENTS

If you choose to sleep alone, a one-person tent is a cozy option. In cool temperatures, there’s less space to warm up, yet most have plenty of space for your gear. The Kelty Discovery Trail 1 Tent ($115, kelty.com, 3 lbs. 15 oz.) has two poles, and it’s quick to set up. The three-season tent has ultrafine no-see-um mesh inside, with a rainfly outside.

A solid backcountry tent, Eureka’s Suma 2 Tent ($160, eurekacamping.johnsonoutdoors.com, 4 lbs. 2 oz.) has one door, one vestibule and plenty of space inside to sleep two. A gear loft and three inside pockets help you stay organized. The color-matched tent body and rainfly make it easy to set up this tent quickly. Because it has a single vestibule, you’ll be entering and exiting where you’re storing your pack. If you are backpacking with it, it’s light enough that it won’t cramp your style.

Spacious and easy to set up, Mountain Hardwear’s Meridian 2P Tent ($275, mountainhardwear.com, 5 lbs. 8.6 oz.) is a backcountry palace. With two doors, double vestibules and five interior pockets, the symmetrical tent has a rainfly that rolls back and clips half open so you can view the stars while keeping the bugs out. It’s easy to cover the tent fully if the weather changes. It comes with a ground cloth to protect the bathtub bottom from wear and tear. Because it’s symmetrical, you can sleep head to toe, and the fly can go on either way.

"Tent or Tarp? How to Pick the Right Camping Shelter" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You don’t need four burners and a gas line to make some great-tasting trail food. All you need is plenty of sunlight. Make your own solar cooker and feed the whole group. Solar ovens work by bouncing sunlight off a reflective surface into a container. The hotter the container, the faster your food will cook. It’s easy to make—and cheap.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE A SOLAR COOKER:

• Black paper
• Foil
• Glue
• Marker
• Plastic wrap
• Ruler
• Scissors
• Skewer
• Square pizza box
• Tape
• Utility knife

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A SOLAR OVEN:

STEP 1: Use a ruler and marker to outline the top of the pizza box about 1 inch inward from each edge. This will create a square on top of the box.

STEP 2: Carefully cut the front and sides of the square. Leave the back attached. Fold back the flap.

STEP 3: Line the inside of the square flap with foil, and glue it down shiny side up. Keep the foil as smooth as possible. Fold and glue down any excess foil to the back of the flap, or trim it to fit.

STEP 4: Repeat Step 3 to line the bottom of the box. Next, glue a sheet of black paper on top of the foil. This will help your oven absorb heat.

STEP 5: Fold back the flap. Cover the opening with a layer of plastic wrap. Using tape, attach the wrap to the 1″ sides on top of the pizza box. Make sure there are no holes in the plastic wrap. The opening needs to be sealed completely. Optional: You can also line the inside of the opening with plastic wrap to ensure air won’t get through.

STEP 6: It’s time to cook! Once you have your food (s’more, cookies, etc.) inside your oven on a piece of foil or small aluminum pan, close the box. On one side, place the tip of a wooden skewer between the closed lid and the edge of the box. Tape the other tip of the skewer to the square flap to help prop it up.

STEP 7: Place your solar cooker outside with the flap angled directly at the sun. This will let the foil reflect the sun and cook your food. Time will vary depending on the outside temperature, the sun and the dish you decide to cook.

TRY IT OUT

Solar cooking takes a little practice. Try this easy recipe first:

SOLAR OVEN S’MORES

Ingredients:

• Graham crackers
• Milk chocolate bars
• Marshmallows

Place graham crackers next to each other on piece of foil. Top each cracker with a piece of chocolate and a marshmallow. Put the foil in the center of your solar oven. When the marshmallow is melted and gooey, take out the crackers and add the second layer of graham crackers on top to complete it.

"How to Make a Solar-Powered Oven for Outdoor Cooking" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you bought your last pair of sunglasses in a convenience store or got them free somewhere, they’re probably fun to wear, but they might not be protecting your eyes.

Glare reflecting off snow, sand, water and even the sidewalk can burn your eyeballs and impact your vision. It’s worth spending a few extra bucks to get sunglasses that block ultraviolet light, fit your face and have the right lenses for the activities you like to do.

Here’s how to be a smart sunglass shopper.

BLOCK THE SUN’S UVB AND UVA RAYS

Good sunglasses make it easier to see in bright conditions while reducing the risk of eye damage. They should protect you from two kinds of ultraviolet (UV) light: UVB and UVA rays.

UVB rays, which cause sunburn, can also burn your eyes. Even in winter, UVB rays can burn you when reflected off the snow. UVA rays are radiation from the sun. Their effect might be less noticeable after a day at the beach, but over time, UVA rays can cause serious eye problems.

Before you buy sunglasses, make sure the pair you like blocks both kinds of rays. Most sunglasses have a sticker on the lens to let you know.

The GOODR NUCLEAR GNAR and GOODR I DO MY OWN STUNTS (pictured) sunglasses are great for small- to average-sized faces. They wrap around for extra protection for cycling, Nordic skiing and more. Both have polarized anti-fog lenses. ($45, goodr.com)

THE RIGHT FRAMES FOR YOUR FACE AND YOUR ACTIVITIES

The sunglass frame size should match your face size, and the lenses should fully cover your eyes. Some frames are metal, but most sports sunglasses have durable and lightweight plastic frames.

Take a look at the frame and make sure the joints are strong. The arms should be snug enough to your head so your shades don’t slip down or fall off, but not so tight that it hurts or gives you a headache.

If you’re doing speed sports, like biking or skiing, glasses that wrap around your head provide more coverage, stopping sunlight from sneaking around the sides and making your eyes water. More coverage will also help your peripheral vision, too.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT LENS FOR YOUR SUNGLASSES

For many activities, polycarbonate lenses are the most affordable. They’re scratch-resistant, and if you drop them, they won’t shatter and potentially cut you.

Polarized lenses substantially reduce glare. Go polarized if you’ll be on the water. Be aware they’re not great for driving or reading LCD screens. Mirrored lenses are a good alternative.

Photochromic lenses automatically adjust to changing light. They’re great for basically every activity except driving. They can also be pricey.

Interchangeable lenses of different colors allow you to choose your tint and polarization on demand.

BLENDERS CRYSTAL ORB shades have a chill vibe; they’re great for sunny days on the water, chucking a flying disc or just hanging out. The polarized blue and purple mirrored lenses provide 100% UV protection. ($59, blenderseyewear.com)

WHICH LENS COLOR IS BEST?

Lens tint is also use-specific. Choose blue for water activities. Dark colors including brown, gray and green are best for everyday use and outdoor activities. Darker lenses cut glare and reduce eyestrain in moderate-to-bright conditions, like on snow. Light colors — yellow, gold, amber and rose — excel in moderate and low light, and are best for sports like skiing and snowboarding. Light colors also improve depth perception, and they can make it easier to see in flat light.

SAFETY GLASSES VS. SUNGLASSES

Note that sunglasses cannot provide the same protection as safety glasses. Switch to the appropriate pair when you’re working with tools or certain materials, administering first aid, or participating in activities like shooting sports.

TIFOSI STRIKEOUT are some of the most affordable UVA/UVB blocking shades you can buy, and they have glare-reducing lenses. Choose from four shatterproof options. ($30, tifosioptics.com)

SUNGLASS RETAINERS

Unless there’s a good reason not to wear a strap — say, while mountain biking, where it could snag on a limb — it’s wise to add a retainer. You paid good money for good sunglasses; you don’t want your last look at them to be them sinking to a river bottom.

WHERE TO SHOP FOR SUNGLASSES

Sunglass-specific shops, or outdoor stores usually have knowledgeable staff, and you don’t have to worry about buying fake or counterfeit sunglasses. If you shop online, make sure to buy from a reputable company or website.

If you have your heart set on a pair of pricey shades, keep an eye out for models being discontinued, holiday sales and discounts on your first purchase, which is common on manufacturer websites.

"How to Buy Good Sunglasses" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It’s important that properly fitted U.S. Coast Guard–approved life jackets are worn by everyone engaged in boating activities. You can learn more about life jackets in the following three safety videos.

LIFE JACKET SAFETY

Life jacket types: The best life jacket is the one you’re wearing. There are various types of life jackets, so make sure your life jacket is appropriate for the aquatic activity you’re doing. You should also check the label to make sure it is approved by the Coast Guard.

Proper fit: A snug fits is a proper fit. All straps, buckles and zippers must be secure.

Life jacket condition: Life jackets with tears, broken pieces or buoyancy loss should not be used.

When to wear a life jacket: Before you get in a boat, you should put on a life jacket. You should also wear a life jacket in clear water more than 12 feet deep, in murky water where you can’t see your feet when treading water or if you’re in flowing water.

HOW TO PROPERLY FIT A LIFE JACKET

How do you find a life jacket that fits correctly?

1. Read the label to select your size. A life jacket that is too big or too small for you is not safe.

2. Don the life jacket.

3. Fasten the restraints. Make sure all straps, buckles and zippers are secure.

4. While on shore, hold your arms up and have a buddy grab the top of your life jacket and lift. A life jacket is fitted correctly when it does not rise above your shoulders on land or above your ears in the water. If either occurs, adjust the straps or exchange the life jacket for one of the proper size.

In calm, shallow water, you can test the fit by relaxing and tilting your head back. Your chin should be well above water. If it isn’t, readjust for a snugger fit or try a life jacket with a higher buoyancy rating.

5. Safe Swim Defense and Safety Afloat policies govern all Scouting aquatics activities.

HOW TO READ AND UNDERSTAND THE NEW LIFE JACKET LABELS

Older life jackets were labeled as Type I, II, III, IV or V. That old system has been replaced, and life jackets now come with a new type of label. There are four key parts to the new labels:

1. Buoyancy: Look for an icon on the label containing a number. The higher the number, the better you float.

2. Turning performance: This icon indicates whether the life jacket will autorotate you to a face-up position if you’re face down in the water and unable to move yourself.

3. Activities: These icons indicate which activities are suitable for this life jacket

4. U.S. Coast Guard Approved: This indicates that the life jacket has been tested repeatedly for in-water performance.

Remember to check your life jacket before you wear it. A life jacket with tears, broken pieces or buoyancy loss should be disposed of.

"How to Safely Use a Life Jacket" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you go to a beach with breaking waves, like along an ocean shoreline or a large lake, there’s a possibility rip currents will form. After waves break on shore, water surges back out in a channel — sometimes as narrow as 10 feet wide or as wide as 100 feet. This fast-moving water can carry sand, sediment and swimmers hundreds of feet away from land.

Swimmers who get caught in rip currents can lose their balance, panic and drown as they are pulled out into the water. You might have heard terms like “undertow” or “rip tide,” giving the impression that the water pulls you under. It doesn’t; it pulls you out.

It can be difficult to spot while in the water, but you can tell where a rip current might be as waves often don’t break in that area. You might also see foam or seaweed being pulled out.

If you get caught in a rip current, don’t exhaust yourself trying to swim against the current. Here’s what you should do instead:

• Don’t panic.
• Shout to people on shore for help.
• Swim across the current, parallel to the shoreline, until you’re clear of the current. When you reach calmer water, head back to shore.
• If you get tired, float on your back until the current calms.

Scientists released green dye at a North Carolina beach to show how rip currents flow. (Courtesy of NOAA)

"How to Escape From a Rip Current" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you see someone trying to rescue the person in trouble, be ready to help. Make sure someone has called for help, and keep an eye on the person who needs rescuing. If they go underwater, remember where you last saw them.

To rescue someone, think about the four water rescue techniques: Reach, Throw, Row, Go. This is an easy way to remember how to help someone in the water. It’s important to know when to use each one, starting with the easiest and moving to the most difficult if necessary.

1. REACH

If the victim is conscious and close to the shore, look for a long stick, pole or paddle to perform a rescue.

2. THROW

If you can’t reach the victim, try throwing a buoyant object to them.

3. ROW

If you can’t reach the victim and the victim is unable to grasp a buoyant object, race to the victim in a boat.

4. GO

A swimming rescue is the final option. Only use it when the other options don’t work. Grab a floating aid and have the victim grab it. Make contact with the victim only if absolutely necessary. Never use this rescue option unless you are a strong swimmer.

You can learn more about water rescue techniques by earning the Lifesaving merit badge.

"Reach, Throw, Row, Go! Learn the 4 Water Rescue Techniques" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Bikepacking is a camping trip you take on your bike. It’s a fun way to see the sights from a saddle, cruising roads and trails. Here’s what you need to get started.

PREPARATION FOR BIKEPACKING

CHOOSE A DESTINATION: Adventure can happen anywhere, even when you set out from your back door.

Ultra-endurance racer and avid bikepacker Lael Wilcox says to go where you want to be, where you can see what you want to see. Get ideas for routes by checking out topographic maps (which will likely include backroads) or asking local bicycling shops and clubs. You can find an extensive archive of bikepacking information, with detailed route notes, including where to restock and sleep, at bikepacking.com

If you have a bike computer or GPS watch, download your route before you go. You can also use your phone to navigate. Many apps, like Komoot, let you download routes, including some free downloads. It’s a good idea to carry a hard copy map as well. Study the mileage, terrain, traffic conditions, weather and potential rest stops. Let others know about your trip.

Before any trip, make sure you have qualified adult supervision, use the buddy system, make sure your equipment is in good condition and obey all traffic laws. Prepare like you would for any strenuous adventure, including being physically ready.

THE GEAR YOU’LL NEED FOR BIKEPACKING

Bicycle

Bikes are designed for different purposes, but most any mountain or road bike with terrain-appropriate tires will do. Hardtail mountain bikes and gravel bikes are both popular for bikepacking. Wider tires are more forgiving in off-road terrain. Make sure every part of the bike works properly. Also, your bike should include mounts for various gear.

Bags

The lighter the load, the more fun the ride. Carry your gear so it has minimal impact on your body and the bike’s handling. Drybags with straps or bikepacking-specific bags are the lightest and most comfortable options. Most strap to your handlebars, top tube and frame or under your seat. Bikepacking bags, sometimes called “panniers,” from outdoors retailers ($30-$100 at REI) are some of the most affordable.

Waterproof bags keep gear dry, but you can make any bag waterproof enough by using a trash bag inside. Wilcox says simple is better.

“Stuff your sleeping bag and sleeping pad into a drybag and strap it to the handlebars,” she says.

She recommends the Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack ($35-$55, seatosummit.com) because you can tension the straps to make your sleep kit less bulky. The eVent comes in sizes as large as 30 liters. You can also carry gear in a small backpack, but many riders prefer bags that mount to the bike instead of bags you carry on your body. Riding with a backpack on a bike tour can be hot and feel heavy.

Sleeping

Look for a lightweight sleeping bag and pad. You might also want to bring a tent or tarp for protection from the weather and bugs.

Depending on where you go, temperatures can drop, even in summer. Choose a sleep system that will keep you warm. The Therm-A-Rest Corus ($270, thermarest.com) is a versatile quilt that weighs just over a pound and is designed to keep you warm down to 32 degrees. Pair your sleeping bag with a compact insulated pad, like the Klymit Insulated Static V ($100, scoutshop.org). It’s filled with synthetic insulation to protect you from the cold ground.

A bikepacking-specific tent has poles that collapse shorter than a standard tent so you can carry it on your handlebar without it sticking out too far. If you want a compact tent, get the lightest one you can afford. If a tarp will do, bring that instead.

You can flip your bike upside down and drape the tarp over it, then stake out the corners with cord and tent stakes. Check out Klymit’s Roamer Throw Tarp ($45, klymit.com) — it weighs a little more than 8 ounces and features six grommets. Be sure to avoid mud so your gear shifters aren’t damaged.

Personal Gear

Pack gear that’s light and multifunctional. If you’ll go on hikes, wear bike shoes that can handle multisport adventures, like Ride Concepts’ Vice ($100, rideconcepts.com). If you’ll be near water, think about bringing lightweight sandals, like Xero Shoes Z-Trail EV ($80, xeroshoes.com).

Dress in layers to prepare for a variety of weather and temperatures. If you’re on a budget, get creative. You can cut a head hole in a trash bag and wear it as a rain poncho. Bikepacking sometimes requires improvising. Also, remember to pack a first-aid kit.

Helmet

Don’t leave home without one. Use one with a multidirectional impact protection system (MIPS), which gives you the most protection in a crash. Some good choices are the Bell Sidetrack II ($60, bellhelmets.com) and Giro Fixture MIPS II ($70, giro.com).

Food

Dehydrated meals are a great lightweight choice, whether you buy them or make your own. If your route passes through towns, plan on restocking instead of carrying everything you need from the start of your trip.

Water

Carry water in a hydration pack or water bottle. A compact water filter, like the Lifestraw Peak Series Collapsible Squeeze 1L Bottle With Filter ($44, lifestraw.com), lets you drink straight from the bottle and refill along your route. Bring enough water bottles to keep you hydrated between water stops.

If you’re using a frame bag, you likely won’t have space for bottle cages. Try putting a hydration reservoir inside your frame bag and threading the hose so you can reach it, and then securing it with zip ties. Use a Platypus SoftBottle ($10-$13, platy.com) to carry spare water. The 1-liter bottles pack flat when empty.

Bring some electrolyte drink mixes, such as Nuun Sport ($7.50, nuunlife.com) or Gatorade.

Tool Kit

Zip ties, duct tape, a cable, cleat bolt (for clipless pedals), hex wrenches, a tube, tire levers, a pump and a multitool are bike-touring repair kit basics. Personalize your kit from there. Know how to use your tools and practice with them before your trip.

PACKING YOUR BIKE

Carry your heaviest gear under your seat, whether in a seat bag, frame bag or strapped onto your seat rails using nylon straps, such as those sold by Voile ($6-$19.50, voile.com). Carry the lightest gear on your handlebars. Too much weight on the handlebars can make it hard to steer.

"Get Your Bicycle Ready and Grab This Gear to Go Bikepacking" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Not all campfires are built equally. You can arrange your firewood to get different results, depending on the weather and how you want to manage the fire.

Before you begin, consider the conditions: It might be too dry or windy to safely light a fire. Build on gravel, sand or bare earth that is well away from trees, brush and dry grass, preferably in an established fire ring. Have plenty of water nearby to extinguish the blaze when you’re done.

Here are three different ways to lay the firewood:

• Tepee: Ball up your tinder and set it on the ground. Place small kindling sticks around the tinder, tepee style. Add larger sticks in the same way after the fire is lit. This type of fire lay is easy to light and get going.

• Lean-to: Place a stick into the ground with the upper end pointing into the wind. Lean the stick against a log and place your tinder underneath. Add kindling and larger sticks on either side of the first stick. Air drawn into the front of the lean-to will help feed the flames.

• Log-cabin: Set two sticks on the ground, a few inches apart. Place your tinder and kindling in between, tepee style. Stack two more sticks, pointing the opposite direction, on top of the two sticks on the ground. Continue stacking, alternating the directions of the two sticks. This style can create a long-burning fire.

Find types of tinder you can use to help start a fire at go.scoutlife.org/campfire

"3 Different Ways To Lay the Firewood for a Campfire" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Bears can catch a scent miles away. The inside of a bear’s nose is 100 times bigger than ours, and it’s full of sensory cells.

That’s why you need to properly store your smellables when you’re camping in bear country. This includes food, garbage, toiletries, lotions and insect repellent. Don’t stow this stuff in your backpack or tent.

Here are some tips to help keep you safe from bears:

• Never snack in your tent.
• Keep all camp “smellables” stored properly, using bear-resistant containers to protect them from hungry bears. Smellables include any item with a scent: food and items like canned goods, bottles, drinks, soaps, cosmetics, toiletries, trash, coolers and unwashed items.
• Have out only the food that you are actually using; if you’re not using it, put it back into the food locker.
• Treat your trash like food: keep it in your food locker or dispose of it in a bear-proof dumpster.

To store food and smellables in a bear bag, find a tree with a sturdy horizontal branch about 20 feet above the ground. Toss a 50-foot-long cord over the branch. Stash your provisions in a sturdy plastic trash bag or in a waterproof stuff sack, and then close and secure it to one end of the cord.

Pull the other end of the cord to raise the bag until the bottom of the bag is at least 12 feet off the ground and 8 feet away from tree trunks — well beyond the reach of any bears. Tie the free end of the cord to a tree or stake.

You can also try storing your stuff in heavy-duty metal boxes or bear canisters, which are made from strong plastic.

Properly storing your smellables deters not only bears, but also other hungry critters like raccoons and mice.

"How To Stay Safe From Bears" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you’re taking a break mid-hike, kicking back around the campfire or sitting down to eat a meal, a camp chair keeps you comfy and off the ground.

Which chair is best depends on how you’ll use it. The best one for backpacking isn’t always the one you’ll want for car camping. If you’re backpacking, pick one that’s lightweight and low bulk. It can be something as simple as an inflatable seat or a foldable cushion. You can find small collapsible stools that are easy to pack.

You can also make your own camp chair: Use your pioneering skills to assemble a large tripod and hang a tarp underneath to create a chair. Find instructions at go.scoutlife.org/campchair

If you prefer to buy, consider these great options:

7 GREAT CAMP CHAIRS

Slip the ALPS MOUNTAINEERING TRI-LEG STOOL out of its tube-shaped carry case and unhook a strip of Velcro — it instantly turns into a three-legged seat. The steel-leg stool sets up and breaks down in seconds, and it’s easy to slip into the side pocket of a pack. It can hold up to 250 pounds. 2 lbs. ($25, alpsmountaineering.com)

The original backpacking camp chair is now lighter — and it rolls. Durable, dirt-repelling and padded with cored-out closed-cell foam, the CRAZY CREEK HEX 2.0 ORIGINAL CHAIR is one you can take anywhere and will last a long time. It has a 250-pound weight capacity, and it’s available in a larger size for those 6 feet and taller. 18.5 oz. ($65, crazycreek.com)

Younger Scouts should consider the REI CO-OP KIDS’ CAMP CHAIR. It has an armrest pocket, and the strap that keeps the chair closed when folded doubles as a chair carrier. It’s rated to support up to 125 pounds. 4 lbs. ($40, rei.com)

Turn your air mattress into a camp chair with THERM-A-REST TREKKER CHAIR. The kit has sleeves to hold each end of your air mattress. Side straps let you adjust the recline. It comes in two sizes to match your mattress width. 10 oz. ($50, thermarest.com)

With a seat that’s a foot off the ground and a back that puts you in a pleasantly relaxed position, the steel-frame KELTY LOWDOWN CHAIR is one of the most comfortable chairs you can buy. An insulated drink holder is expandable to hold a book or games. 7 lbs., 6 oz. ($75, kelty.com)

Like a miniature closed-cell foam sleeping pad, the z-fold NEMO CHIPPER is super light, insulating and 100% waterproof. Made from foam scraps from Nemo’s sleeping pad production, each one is unique. Folded, the sections nest to keep it compact. 7.6 oz. ($20, nemoequipment.com)

For a lightweight chair perfect for your next hike, the new BSA 37°N BACKPACKING CHAIR sets up easily thanks to its shock-corded poles. The aluminum frame and cloth material can accommodate up to 264 pounds. It also comes with a zippered carrying case. 1 lb., 14 oz. ($35, scoutshop.org)

"How To Pick the Best Camp Chair for Any Outdoor Activity" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Relax around camp by building a comfortable camping chair. It’s easy if you have the pioneering skills.

WHAT YOU NEED TO MAKE A CAMP CHAIR

• Three spars about 4 inches in diameter, two 8 feet long and one 12 to 15 feet long
• Four sections of rope, one 30 feet long and three 3 to 4 feet long
• 6-by-8-foot (or slightly bigger) tarp, folded into an isosceles triangle
• Three heavy rocks slightly smaller than baseballs but larger than golf balls

WHAT YOU’LL DO TO MAKE A CAMP CHAIR

Step One: Determine which ends of each spar are the thickest, and designate those as the base of each spar. Lay the two shorter spars together on the ground, parallel to each other, with each base at the same end and even with each other.

Lay the long spar down in the opposite direction, with its base at the opposite end from the bases of the shorter spars, with only about two feet of overlap at the tops. Keep them all parallel.

Use the 30-foot rope to perform a tripod lashing around all three spars.

Step Two: Fold each rock into a corner of the triangle-shaped tarp and twist to create a pocket that will hold the rock. Then tie one of the three shorter ropes around the pocket holding the rock by wrapping a few times and tying off the end with two half hitches.

Be sure to leave 2 to 3 feet of rope available. Repeat for each corner.

Step Three: Attach the tarp to the tripod by wrapping the remaining rope around each spar once or twice and finishing with a taut-line hitch.

The longest spar should act as the back leg of the camp chair, so attach the rope at higher point on that spar to create the back of the chair.

Step Four: Relax comfortably in your camping chair.

"How to Use Lashings to Build a Comfortable Camp Chair" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You plan to bake banana nut bread in a Dutch oven during an upcoming campout. Sounds delicious — but not everyone in your patrol might think so.

Millions of people are allergic or intolerant to certain foods. They could have mild or severe reactions if they eat them. Some of the more common foods people are allergic to include:

• Milk
• Eggs
• Fish
• Shellfish (crab, lobster, shrimp)
• Tree nuts (almonds, walnuts, pecans)
• Peanuts
• Wheat
• Soybeans

Some common intolerances are lactose, which is found in dairy products, and gluten, which is in most breads.

If someone in your patrol has food allergies or intolerances, talk with them and their family about what needs to be done to help keep them safe. Often, a menu adjustment is required — you can still bake banana bread, but leave out the nuts. Or you can find a tasty substitute like cooking chicken instead of shrimp.

Carefully check ingredient labels, because some allergens can appear in soups, sauces and meats.

Also, when you’re in camp, be careful about cross-contamination. If someone is allergic to peanuts and the patrol is having peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, don’t use the same knife for both jars. After the knife for the peanut butter has been dipped into the jelly jar, that jelly now has that peanut allergen in it, so the person with the allergy can’t even have a jelly sandwich.

Preparing meals with food allergies in mind keeps everyone safe and helps you make meals everyone can enjoy.

"Be Courteous About Allergies in the Camp Kitchen" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

The overhand knot is usually one of the first knots that Cub Scouts learn how to tie. It’s a simple knot that can be used for different purposes, like stopping a rope from slipping through a pulley or hole, or making it easier to grip. The overhand knot is also the first step for several other knots.

With just a few steps, you can learn to tie the overhand knot. All you need is a single strand of rope.

1. First, make a loop in the end of a rope.

2. Next, tuck the end of the rope through the loop.

3. Pull the end of the rope to tighten the knot.

If you need to stop a rope from slipping through a larger hole, you may need a bigger knot. To create a larger stopper knot, you can add a second overhand knot after the first one. This will increase the size of the knot, making it more effective at stopping the rope.

"How to Tie an Overhand Knot" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Sledding is a super-fun winter activity, but you can do more with your sled than race downhill. Some sleds can make winter backpacking easier by helping haul your gear.

Polar explorer Eric Larsen, who has trekked to the north pole many times, says carrying gear in a sled or “pulk” is more efficient than carrying gear on your back.

“Not only do you not get as sweaty when you’re pulling your gear instead of carrying it,” Larsen tells SL, “but it’s easier to manage moisture and adjust layers.”

HOW TO MAKE A PULK

It’s easy to make any toboggan-style plastic sled part of your winter camping kit.

Step 1. Start with an inexpensive plastic kit. Drill holes (or ask a parent for help drilling holes) in the front rim so you can attach a rope on either side of the front of the sled. Reinforce the holes with metal hardware for durability.

Step 2. Then set up your tow ropes. Thread a rope through the holes on each side of the front rim of the sled.

If you’ll be traveling on uneven terrain, thread your ropes through a section of narrow PVC pipe — one piece of pipe per side. The PVC pipe helps give you the best control.

Finally, tie the end of each piece of rope to a carabiner. You can clip those carabiners to the waistbelt of your pack when you’re ready to tow the sled.

Step 3. For added control, cross your ropes when you attach them to your pack. Make sure the ropes are long enough so you’re not kicking the sled with your skis or snowshoes.

Larsen likes to make his sled ropes long enough so he can walk back to the sled without detaching it from his pack. He uses butterfly knots to make the rope sections longer or shorter. To learn how to tie this knot, visit go.scoutlife.org/butterflyknot or watch the video below.

Larsen also recommends that you don’t tie your sled to the back of your pack: “Make a bridle, and clip your sled rope carabiners near your hips where your pack’s load lifters come in so that you’re pulling with your center of gravity.”

HOW TO PACK YOUR BACKPACKING SLED

Sledding with your gear is less strenuous than carrying it, but it’s still possible to overdo it. Make good choices about what to bring, especially since you’re also weighed down with extra clothing to stay warm.

When packing your sled, distribute the weight to keep the sled stable and balanced. Put the heaviest gear on the bottom and toward the back. Put your lightest gear in the front. Larsen likes to keep extra mitts, goggles, an extra layer of clothes, water and snacks in a small bag at the front of the sled so he can get to them easily.

If you have access to a waterproof duffel, pack your gear in that. If not, pack your gear in heavy-duty contractor bags inside any duffel bag. Keep any gear you want to be able to access during the day in a daypack or small duffel, and secure both bags to the sled. Once your sled is loaded, wrap a tarp over your duffels to protect everything from the weather. Lace bungees or cord across the sled to secure your gear.

When you get to camp, you can use the tarp on the snow-covered ground to keep everything dry when you’re unloading. And when you’re on the trail, you can use your loaded sled as a chair when you take a break. If you have on skis, you can unclip yourself from your sled and back up — with a ski on either side of the sled — so you won’t have to take off your skis to take a rest. If you opt not to use PVC pipe, like Larsen, you won’t need to unclip.

RECOMMENDED SLEDS FOR FUN AND WINTER HIKING

“When it comes to backpacking sleds, the inexpensive solution is actually the best solution,” Larsen says. “A cheap sled will be light, easy to use and also fun when you get to camp.”

Strap a SUPERIO ROUND SNOW SLED ($20, superiobrand.com) to the outside of your pack, and when you get to an open hill, slip it off and hop on for a ride. The sled measures 24 inches across and is made with heavy-duty plastic. It also has hand grips on either side so you can hold on as you zip downhill. Superio also makes another round sled with elevated handles for $26.

To tow your gear, you’ll need a toboggan-style sled like the ERA GROUP EXPEDITION PRO UTILITY SLED ($70, eragroup.ca). This sled is designed for pulling gear, not for sliding. Its heavy-duty polyethylene plastic weighs just 5 pounds and comes with reinforced grommets. At 5 feet long and almost 2 feet across, you should be able to pack a lot of gear.

A cheaper sled can work just as well, like the FROST RUSH LARGE TOBOGGAN SLED ($30, machrus.com). It comes with predrilled holes for tow ropes and cutout handles that can be used to tie down gear. It has a slick bottom to help you glide across the snow as you ride on it.

GUIDE TO SAFE SLEDDING

When you go sledding, make sure the hill is safe and free of obstacles like rocks and trees. Even if the hill doesn’t have any obstacles, still wear a helmet. Have two separate paths: one for sledding down and one for walking back up.

For more info on winter sports safety, visit go.scoutlife.org/wintersports

"How to Use a Sled to Make a Pulk for Backpacking in the Snow" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You can prepare meals at camp a few different ways: by camp stove, open fire, charcoal grill, solar oven or Dutch oven.

Dutch ovens are heavy cast-iron pots that make baking outdoors easy. You can also steam, fry, sauté or boil food in them. Some Dutch ovens are made with aluminum, which makes them a lot lighter. The design of both is the same: a round pot with legs and a rimmed lid to hold hot coals.

This design lets you evenly cook by placing coals above and below the oven. You can adjust the temperature by adding or removing coals. For example, if you want to bake something at 350 degrees and you have a 12-inch Dutch oven, you put 17 coals on top and eight underneath. To bump up the temperature to 400, 19 coals go on top and 10 go under.

Dutch ovens come in different sizes. Use them on the ground on durable, fireproof material, like rock, gravel or dirt. Always have a bucket of water handy to douse any wayward flames or extinguish coals when you’re done cooking.

HOW MANY BRIQUETTES GO ON TOP AND BELOW A DUTCH OVEN?

When it comes to baking, knowing the size of your Dutch oven is important. Depending on the size of your Dutch oven, the amount of charcoal you need to use will vary in order to reach the desired temperature.

To figure out how much charcoal you need, use the chart provided which shows how many briquettes you need for your oven size.

Remember to use fewer coals on the bottom of the oven than on the top, as this will help prevent food from burning on the bottom. Also, remember to bring extra charcoal in case the wind picks up or it’s very cold outside.

Find Dutch oven recipes, from pizza to pineapple upside-down cake by visiting go.scoutlife.org/dutchoven

"Conversion Chart for Dutch Oven Cooking Times and Temperatures" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Twelve-year-old Erick Cole was sick at heart, and scared. Erick and his little brother, Andy, 4, had been sledding together out in the Nebraska snow. When it came time to go home, Erick decided to make another run; Andy said he’d wait for his big brother at the bottom of the hill.

But as Erick reached the end of his final slide, he discovered Andy had vanished! The temperature was dropping quickly, and soon Erick was desperate in his search for Andy.

Where could he be?

The older boy walked near an abandoned construction pit, calling “Andy! Andy!” That’s when Erick heard a weak cry. His brother had slipped into the pit and was too small to climb out.

Erick jumped down into the pit to rescue him. Andy was dazed, crying and unable to walk. Gently, Erick picked him up and carried Andy to the nearest house. It was a close call. Andy survived, but the cold had almost killed him.

WHAT CAUSES HYPOTHERMIA?

Your body gets energy from the food and water you consume. As you process food and water, heat is released, keeping you warm inside. Usually you make more heat than you need. Your body sheds the excess heat through conduction, convection, evaporation, and radiation to stabilize your inner (core) temperature at 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit.

When you lose heat faster than you make it — Andy’s problem — your internal temperature begins to fall. Dehydration, the weather, hunger and exhaustion can all contribute to this body heat loss.

A drop in core temperature is called hypothermia. This dangerous condition happens when you’re exposed to the cold. Temperatures don’t have to drop below freezing, though. Hypothermia can occur on any windy, chilly day, especially if you’re wearing wet clothes.

WHAT ARE THE SIGNS OF HYPOTHERMIA?

A hypothermic person develops increasingly serious problems as his body continues to cool down. The signs of hypothermia are:

1. Confusion and trouble solving problems, plus mild shivering.
2. Stumbling and stronger shivering, pale skin, having trouble speaking and an “I-don’t-care” attitude.
3. Inability to walk and horrible shivers.
4. Slow heartbeat and breathing. Skin turns blue. Muscles grow rigid. Shivering stops for the same reason a motor dies — there’s no more fuel. Then, death.

HOW DO YOU TREAT HYPOTHERMIA?

MILD HYPOTHERMIA: Someone who can still shiver, walk and talk has mild hypothermia. You can warm that person back up to normal body temperature.

It’s simple. Here’s how:

Get the person into a building or tent and have them change into warm, dry clothes. Keep their head and neck insulated and get them into a dry sleeping bag or use blankets to gradually warm them up. If you can, get the person to a source of heat, such as a fire. Don’t apply direct heat like a heating pad. Be sure to help them change their socks if theirs are wet.

If they’re able to eat or drink, offer them food or warm drinks that have sugar or simple carbohydrates. Sweet fluids like hot cider or sweetened tea, as well as high-energy foods, such as candy, will help their body generate heat.

SEVERE HYPOTHERMIA: Severe hypothermia starts when someone can’t shiver anymore. Handle the person with care. No rough stuff. Take off their damp clothing. Bundle them in warm, dry layers and make sure there’s insulation underneath.

Wrap the person in something waterproof and windproof, such as a tent fly, and be careful that their head is protected from the cold, too. Monitor them closely and get emergency aid.

Watch others in the group to make sure they’re not developing symptoms too.

HOW DO YOU AVOID HYPOTHERMIA?

The best medicine is prevention. Here are some ways to prevent hypothermia:

1. Wear clothes designed to keep you warm in the cold.
2. Wear lots of thin layers of clothes instead of one heavy garment, such as a coat. If you get warm and sweaty, take off a layer to let the sweat dry. If you start feeling cold again, add layers of clothing.
3. Drink and eat a lot, so your body has plenty of “fuel” to generate heat.
4. In a group, watch out for hypothermia’s symptoms in others. They may not realize they are becoming hypothermic.

"What Are the Signs of Hypothermia and How Do You Treat It?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you’re spelunking, digging through your pack at night or walking around camp after sundown, you need a good light. It’s one of the Scout Basic Essentials for outdoor adventures. A flashlight or headlamp can help keep you safe while exploring in the dark, serve as an emergency signal or provide a little illumination on a good book before bed.

Let’s shine some light on which headlamp or flashlight to consider before buying.

Sleek and simple, the MINI MAGLITE PRO LED ($30, maglite.com) fits perfectly in your hand, and — thanks to its aluminum exterior — if it slips, it can withstand a 3-foot drop. The flashlight offers 332 lumens and includes 2 AA batteries with a 2 1⁄2 -hour life. 4.1 oz. A cool accessory: safety wands ($9). They’re plastic cones that fit over your flashlight, instantly turning it into a lantern.

THE BASICS

Think about how you will use your light. Will you be taking it on a backpacking trek? Look for something lightweight. Do you want your hands free? Consider a headlamp or flashlight with a clip so you can attach it to the brim of your cap. Would you like different amounts of light? Shop for something with variable settings, including a red-light option, which is easier on everyone’s eyes at night.

If you want versatility, check out the COAST G32 ($30, coastportland.com). It has high and low settings, which you control from the rear button, and you can focus the beam by twisting the bezel at the front of the flashlight. The G32 produces 135 lumens on the low setting and 370 on high. Includes 2 AA batteries with a 4 1⁄2 -hour life on high, 17 hours on low. 5.6 oz.

DURABILITY

Hard plastic should be tough enough if you accidentally drop your light. But some are made with aluminum or super-tough polyethylene plastic. Stronger materials should protect your light from the hardest impacts.

When you’re buying a light, ask yourself: Over a few camping trips will it be able to hold up to wear and tear?

It’s also best to pick a model with a push-button switch because lights with sliding buttons can accidentally be turned on in your pack, killing the batteries or bulb — and leaving you with no light.

You can carry around the COLEMAN CLASSIC 300 LUMENS LED FLASHLIGHT ($35, coleman.com) or hang it from a thin rope or carabiner through its rear bail handle. The light features four settings: high, medium, low and strobe, with 300 lumens on the high setting. It includes 3 AAA batteries with a 3-hour life on high, 75 hours on low. 5.2 oz.

BRIGHTNESS

Think about what you’ll be using your light for. If you just want a light to read by in camp, consider a small flashlight or tiny lantern with LED lights. If you need it for hiking or mountain biking, a bright headlamp with a halogen or Xenon bulb might be a better choice.

Brightness is measured in lumens. What’s a lumen? A lumen is the total amount of light emitted from a flashlight or headlamp. In general, the more lumens, the brighter the light will be. Some handheld flashlights reach levels up to 12,000 lumens — strong enough to shine on something more than half a mile away. You won’t need anything that powerful; a light producing a couple hundred lumens provides more than enough illumination.

Always be aware of where you point your light. Shining a beam into someone’s eyes can disrupt their night vision for up to 30 minutes.

The handy and lightweight PRINCETON TEC ALLOY-X ($60, princetontec.com) is a penlight. Think of how a pen feels in your hand; a penlight is very similar. Even though it’s small, it offers 400 lumens of light. The penlight features three settings you can control either with the front bezel or rear push button. It includes one rechargeable battery with a 30-minute life on high, 28 hours on low. You can swap out the battery with 2 AAA batteries. 1.5 oz.

BATTERIES

Technology has advanced beyond disposable batteries. One popular alternative is rechargeable batteries, often using a USB cord. Other lights use solar cells or magnets. Most lights, though, still operate on AA or AAA batteries but can stay on for hours, even on the brightest setting.

At 250 lumens, the PETZL TIKKINA ($20, petzl.com) presents a great value. The brightness can rotate through three white lighting levels by pressing a large push button. The stretchy adjustable headband can be removed and washed. The light also can be angled down and set into place so you can watch where you’re going. Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2-hour life on high, 120 hours on low. You can swap out the batteries with a rechargeable one. 2.8 oz.

PRICE

Your budget will determine what you can get. More expensive lights generally have more features, but a simple flashlight for a few dollars might be a great choice. Remember that cheap lights usually are not durable and won’t last long.

One of the coolest features of the LANDER KIVA ($50, lander.com) is its rechargeable USB system. Instead of using a separate cord, detach part of the headband to reveal an integrated charger you can plug straight into a USB-A port. The Kiva’s bulb produces a warm, yellowish beam that can be adjusted by holding down the push button to produce up to 150 lumens. The headband is made from recycled plastic harvested from the ocean. Includes a built-in battery with a 2-hour life on high, 40 hours on low. 2.3 oz.

SIZE AND WEIGHT

If you mainly keep the light in your pack for emergencies or for getting around camp at night, get a smaller light. Some of the newer, more expensive small lights can pack as much power as the older big ones.

The PETZL TIKKA ($30, petzl.com) offers quality and features similar to the Tikkina. One main difference is its phosphorescent reflector, which glows green after you shut off the headlamp. This helps you find the headlamp in the dark. I turned on the light for a few seconds, and it glowed for several minutes afterward. If you hold down the push button, the headlamp’s red-light setting turns on. Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2-hour life on high, 120 hours on low. 3.3 oz.

For a headlamp that doesn’t take up much space, the BLACK DIAMOND FLARE ($30, blackdiamondequipment.com) is perfect. This headlamp emits 40 lumens and has white- and red-light settings. Instead of a push button, you turn it on by twisting its bezel, which will probably require both hands. You can also adjust it at different angles. Includes 2 lithium coin-cell batteries. 1 oz.

Tap the side of the BLACK DIAMOND SPOT 400 ($45, blackdiamondequipment.com) and switch from a full-power beam of 400 lumens to a setting at half the power. You can also use the two push buttons to switch between settings, as well as put the headlamp on its red-light setting. A nice feature is the Spot’s three-light battery-life indicator. It also comes in a rechargeable version ($65). Includes 3 AAA batteries with a 2 1⁄2-hour life on high, 200 hours on low. 2.5 oz.

"How to Buy a Great Headlamp or Flashlight" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Transformers: This cute flashlight transforms into a lantern with feet that act like a tripod.

Tripod Lamp: The bendable legs on this lamp can be twisted into any shape to hang or mount the light on most surfaces.

Tuque Lights: A wearable headlamp embedded in a beanie can keep your head warm while it lights up the area.

Magnetic Mounts This light is studded with magnets to mount it on metal surfaces.

Flashlight Gloves: Embedding LED lights in the fingertips can be super helpful for close work or tight areas.

Prehistoric Lights: Dinosaur headlamps are the coolest headlamps!

Bright Bugs: By twisting the insect-like legs in this small light, it can be placed wherever you need it.

Vintage Flashlight: This army-style flashlight can be slipped onto a belt for hands-free use.

"Take a Look at These 7 Wacky Flashlights" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

After you have learned to tie a knot, practice it often. Carry a piece of rope in your pocket. When you have a few minutes to spare, pull it out and tie all the knots you know. Practice them enough that you can tie them quickly — even with your eyes closed. When you can do that, you will be ready to use these knots whenever they are needed.

SQUARE KNOT

The square knot has many uses, from securing bandages and packages to joining two ropes together. A square knot works best when pressed against something else and the ropes are of the same diameter. It should not be used to hold a heavy load.

Also called the joining knot, because it joins two ropes, it is the first knot you learn when you join Scouts BSA.

Tying a square knot is as easy as right over left, left over right. Here’s how:

• Hold an end of the rope in each hand.
• Pass the right end over and under the rope in your left hand.
• Pass the rope end now in your left hand over and under the one now in your right.
• Tighten the knot by pulling both running ends at the same time.

Learn more about the square knot.

TWO HALF HITCHES

A hitch is a knot that ties a rope to something. Two half hitches form a loop that can be adjusted to make it smaller or larger. You can use two half-hitches to tie a rope to a tree, ring or dock. Two half hitches are commonly used to tie guy lines onto a dining fly.

Here’s how to tie two half hitches:

• Pass the running end of the rope around the post or through the grommet.
• Bring the end over and around the standing part of the rope, then back through the loop that has formed. This makes a half-hitch.
• Continue taking the end around the standing part to tie another half-hitch (this time outside the loop). Be sure to go around the standing part in the same direction.
• Pull the knot snug and slide it against the pole or grommet.

Learn more about the two half hitches knot.

TAUT-LINE HITCH

To create an adjustable loop that stays in place, use the taut-line hitch. This is the knot to use for staking out the guy lines of your tent or dining fly because it can make a line tight, or taut.

Here’s how to tie the taut-line hitch:

• Pass the running end of the rope around the tent stake.
• Bring the end over and around the standing part, then back through the loop that has formed.
• Go around the standing part inside the loop again (this time closer to the tent stake).
• Going in the same direction, take the end around the standing part outside the loop to tie another half-hitch.
• Work any slack out the knot.
• Slide the hitch to tighten or loosen the line.

Learn more about the taut-line hitch.

SHEET BEND KNOT

The sheet bend is a very good knot for tying together two ropes. This knot won’t slip when ropes of the same or dissimilar material and size are tied together.

Here’s how to tie the sheet bend:

• Make a bight in the end of the thicker rope and hold it with one hand.
• Pass the running end of the other rope through the bight. Then take that end around and behind the bight.
• Bring the end across the front of the bight and tuck it under its own standing part so that both rope ends emerge on the same side of the knot.
• Tighten the knot by holding the bight and pulling the standing part of the smaller line.

When tying the knot, be sure that the working ends are on the same side; otherwise, the knot might be unreliable. If you tie a thick and thin rope together, use the thick rope to form the “stationary loop” and the thin rope as the “working line.”

Learn more about the sheet bend knot.

BOWLINE KNOT

The bowline knot forms a loop that will not slip. That’s just what you want for tying a rope around your waist or around someone requiring rescue. This knot is popular among mountaineers, climbers, sailors and others.

A bowline knot also works well for securing guy lines through the grommets on a tent or dining fly. It is also easy to untie.

You can learn how to tie a bowline knot around yourself, around a post, and in the free end of a rope. Here’s how:

• Make a small overhand loop in the standing part of a rope.
• Bring the rope end up through the loop, around and behind the standing part, and back down into the loop. The amount of rope remaining below the loop determines the size of the fixed loop in the finished bowline.
• Bring the working end back down through the overhand loop so it exits the knot toward the inside of the fixed loop.
• Tighten the knot by pulling the standing part of the rope away from the loop while holding the bight.

Learn more about the bowline knot.

TIMBER HITCH

The timber hitch is the perfect knot to use for dragging a log across the ground. It will stay secure as long as you are pulling on the rope. When you are done using the rope, the timber hitch is easy to loosen and remove from the log.

The timber hitch is also the knot that starts a diagonal lashing.

Here’s how to tie a timber hitch:

• Pass the running end of the rope around a log.
• Loop the end around the standing part of the rope, then twist the end around itself three or more times.
• Pull slack out of the rope to tighten the timber hitch against the log.

Learn more about the timber hitch.

CLOVE HITCH

The clove hitch is a versatile knot that is often used in Scouting activities. Clove comes from the word cleave, meaning “to hold fast.” The clove hitch is used to begin and end many lashings.

Here’s how to tie the clove hitch:

• Bring the running end of the rope over and under a pole.
• Take the end around a second time, crossing over the first wrap to form the shape of an X.
• Bring the rope end around a third time and tuck it under the X. The ends of the rope should come out between the legs of the X. If they come out to either side of the X, you don’t have a clove hitch.
• Pull the ends of the rope to tighten the hitch.

Learn more about the clove hitch.

"How to Tie the 7 Basic Scout Knots" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Picking a place to pitch a tent isn’t always simple. You could find a flat spot, but the site might be in a low-lying area and prone to flooding if it rains a lot.

To find a place you can safely and comfortably sleep and eat outdoors, consider these nine factors:

Environmental Impact

Use established campsites whenever you can, or camp on durable surfaces that won’t be damaged by you and your fellow Scouts when walking around. If you must move objects, like logs or rocks, return everything to its original spot before you leave.

Safety

Pitch your tent away from dead trees or trees with limbs that might fall in a storm. Avoid camping near lone trees, mountaintops, high ridges and other likely lightning targets.

Find a site away from low-lying places that could fill with water during a flash flood, such as valleys, canyons and banks of small, shallow rivers. Some signs of these areas are debris caught in underbrush or grass bent over in the same direction. Higher ground can be dangerous if you see signs of erosion.

Size

Find a place big enough for your patrol to set up its tents, and cook meals in separate areas. Also, make sure there is enough space to move around without tripping over tent stakes and guylines.

Comfort

In the summer, look for a shady site where breezes can help cool your tent and chase away mosquitoes. In the winter, find a site where trees and hillsides provide a natural windbreak. Regardless of the time of year, place your tent on the flattest spot possible.

Water

You’ll need plenty of water for drinking, cooking and cleaning. Public water supplies are the safest and can be found in most frontcountry campsites. Water from streams, rivers or lakes should be properly treated before use. In some dry places, you might need to carry all your water to camp.

Fire

Where fires are not allowed or where wood is scarce, plan on using a camp stove to heat water and cook food. Where fires are permitted, look for a campsite with an existing fire ring. Use firewood that is dead and down; never cut live trees.

Privacy

Respect the privacy of others by selecting campsites away from theirs. Trees, bushes and the shape of the terrain can screen your camp from trails and neighboring campsites. Keep noise down so you won’t disturb nearby campers, and respect quiet hours at public campgrounds and Scout camps.

Terrain

Make sure your site has good drainage, natural ground cover and enough sunlight for visibility.

Permission

Check ahead of time with public parks, forest and reserves. They can issue any permits you will need. Never camp on private property without permission.

"How to Choose a Safe and Comfortable Campsite" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It’s important to eat balanced meals, but sometimes it’s nice to satisfy your sweet tooth. Here are four tasty recipes to try.

Have a favorite dessert recipe? Send it to us!

OWASIPPE SOUP

Last summer at Owasippe Scout Reservation in Michigan, Matthew Hanson with Troop 41 of Glen Ellyn, Illinois, won a cooking contest with this recipe.

Ingredients

• One 20-ounce can crushed pineapple in juice
• One 21-oz. can cherry pie filling
• 1 box chocolate cake mix
• ¾ cup butter, melted

Directions

Spread the crushed pineapple and its juice into a 12-inch Dutch oven. Spread the cherry pie filling on top of the crushed pineapple. Evenly spread cake mix over both layers, and then pour melted butter on top. Cook in Dutch oven 40-45 minutes with about 15 coals on top and 10 on the bottom. Serve.

CAVE DOUGHNUTS

After exploring the Sullivan Cave in Indiana, Scouts with Troop 797 of Utica, Illinois, made this tasty treat.

Ingredients

• 1 gallon vegetable oil
• Pre-made biscuits
• Powdered sugar
• Cupcake icing in a can

Directions

Fill a pot two-thirds full with oil. Heat it until dough turns lightly brown when it’s placed in; this might take a couple of tests. Place balls of biscuit dough in the oil and let them cook for about 2 minutes, flipping after about 1 minute. Then remove the cooked dough with tongs and roll them in the powdered sugar. Inject the doughnuts with the icing. Serve

DUTCH OVEN BAKLAVA

Scouts with Troop 1911 of Missoula, Montana, cook this treat annually at summer camp.

Ingredients

• 24 sheets phyllo dough (a special thin dough, also in stores as filo and fillo)
• 1 cup butter, melted
• 1½ cups finely chopped pecans
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon

Lemon honey syrup:

• 1½ cups sugar
• ¾ cup water
• ½ teaspoon lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon honey

Directions

Prepare honey syrup by combining all ingredients and bringing to a boil for 1 minute. Set aside to cool.

Melt the butter. Mix pecans, sugar and cinnamon; set aside. Generously butter the bottom of a 12-inch Dutch oven. Lay 1 sheet of phyllo dough in the bottom of the Dutch oven. Butter the top, beginning at the edges and working toward the center. Repeat this step until you have placed eight sheets of phyllo dough, buttering each layer.

Sprinkle half of the nut mixture evenly over the phyllo dough.

Place eight more sheets of phyllo dough on top of nut mixture, buttering between each layer. Sprinkle the remaining nut mixture on top.

Repeat with eight more sheets of phyllo dough, buttering each layer. Drizzle any remaining butter on the top.

Cut into diamond-shaped pieces without cutting through the bottom layer of phyllo dough. Place the lid on the Dutch oven and bake at 350 degrees (eight coals on bottom, 16 on top) for 35-40 minutes or until lightly golden. Remove from heat and pour the honey syrup over the baklava. Serve.

S’MORES PANCAKES

The Scouts of Troop 129 of Anchorage, Alaska, make this breakfast meal the first morning of summer camp every year.

Ingredients (feeds 4)

• 2 cups pancake mix
• About 1½ cups water
• 1 sleeve of graham crackers, crushed
• 2 cups chocolate chips
• 1 container marshmallow fluff

Directions

Preheat a pan on medium-high heat and grease with butter. Combine the pancake mix with water, and then stir in the crushed graham crackers and chocolate chips. Place mixture on the pan in desired size and shape. Cook until golden brown on both sides.

Remove from the pan and top with marshmallow fluff and any additional toppings of your choosing. Serve.

Important Note: Please only upload photos of your dessert. Because of privacy rules, we can’t post any photos that show people’s faces. Always ask for your parent’s permission before uploading anything to a website.

"Savor These 4 Scout-Approved Sweet Treats" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

• Find expert tips to help you get a good night’s sleep
• Picking the right sleeping pad, bag liner, pillow or cot
• How to minimize smelly sleeping bag odor

A good sleeping bag can make the difference between comfort and a long, miserable night. Follow these tips on choosing the right sleeping bag for your adventures.

KNOW YOUR BODY

If you are always wearing a T-shirt in camp when others are wearing a fleece — and you’re not cold — get a bag rated about 10 degrees lower than the lowest temperatures you encounter on trips. If you’re one
of the first people to put on an insulated jacket while hanging around camp, get a bag rated 20-25 degrees lower than the coldest nights you anticipate.

YOU CAN HARDLY BEAT THE PRICE of the COLEMAN SILVERTON 25 DEGREE MUMMY SLEEPING BAG ($69, coleman.com), but that’s just one great factor. Stuffed with synthetic insulation with offset quilt construction that eliminates cold spots — along with a draft tube, an adjustable hood and even a pillow pocket — this bag will keep many campers warm in temps around freezing and above. Sized for sleepers up to 6 feet, 2 inches, it has a spacious foot box and two-way zipper in case you need to ventilate from the top and bottom on mild nights. One downside: It’s heavy and bulky, better for car camping.

KNOW YOUR BUDGET

Prices vary depending on factors like type and quality of insulation, as well as materials used. For instance, a bag rated to zero degrees uses much more insulation than a 30-degree bag.

TEMPERATURE RATINGS

Sleeping bags usually are rated for the lowest temperature used. Many manufacturers use the EN or ISO rating system, a standardized measurement of warmth.

GEARING UP FOR YOUR FIRST CAMPING OR BACKPACKING TRIPS? The affordable and functional KELTY KIDS MISTRAL 30 ($50, kelty.com) is a great choice. The Cloudloft synthetic insulation will retain heat even if it gets damp, and the adjustable hood opening helps seal in heat. Plus, its weight and packability make it one of the most affordable bags that can cross over from car camping to backpacking.

SYNTHETIC VS. DOWN INSULATION

There are two main types of insulation: down and synthetic.

Down is generally warmer, lighter and more packable than synthetic insulation — especially higher-quality down (rated 800-fill and above). But it’s typically more expensive and loses its ability to keep you warm if it becomes wet. There is some water-resistant down.

Synthetic retains its ability to trap heat if the bag gets wet. These sleeping bags are usually heavier and less packable than down bags, but they are also less expensive. They’re the best choice for wet adventures.

THE DRAWBACK OF LOW-PRICED SYNTHETIC BAGS IS THEY CAN BE TOO HEAVY ND BULKY FOR BACKPACKING. Enter THE NORTH FACE ECO TRAIL SYNTHETIC 20 SLEEPING BAG ($129, thenorthface.com). At under 4 pounds (regular length) and packing down to 10-by-18 inches, this mummy bag is made for backpackers on a budget. Its EN limit rating of 20 degrees derives from recycled synthetic insulation — in fact, all materials that go into the bag are recycled, except for the zipper teeth. A wraparound J-zipper and extra width in the knees make it feel roomier than many mummy bags and expands options for ventilating. And it comes in unisex sizes ideal for Scouts nearing adulthood.

WEIGHT

This matters when you’re backpacking, but less so when car camping.

Lighter, higher-quality insulation costs more, but you can also reduce weight and bulk by not buying a 15-degree bag when you need only a 30-degree bag.

DON’T NEED EXTRA WARMTH OR THE WEIGHT AND COST THAT COME WITH IT? The ALPS MOUNTAINEERING AURA +35° ($100. alpsmountaineering.com), made for mild summer nights, weighs in under 3 pounds and packs down to 8 ½-by-16 ½ inches. The synthetic insulation is packaged within two-layer offset construction that eliminates cold spots and is buttressed by a zipper draft tube. Bonus: It comes with a compression stuff sack.

MUMMY VS. RECTANGULAR SHAPE

Mummy bags taper from head to foot for thermal efficiency (less space to heat up) and to minimize weight and bulk, but some can feel claustrophobic.

Rectangular bags are more spacious, but are generally heavier, bulkier and sometimes have cold spots.

Treat a bag like boots: Try it on before buying.

THE KELTY COSMIC DRIDOWN 20 ($160, kelty.com) isn’t the least expensive bag on this list, but it might be the best value. Built for three-season backpacking with an EN limit rating of 19 degrees, the Cosmic is generously stuffed with water-resistant 600-fill down, packs down to 8-by-15 ½ inches and weighs under 2 ½ pounds. The dual-slider zipper doesn’t snag, and the hood and draft collar keep warmth inside. It comes in three lengths, including a small for people up to 5 feet, 6 inches. Try finding a bag with all those features at this price.

CONSTRUCTION

Less expensive, yet lightweight, bags have sewn-through baffles, which can create cold spots along seams. Higher-quality horizontal baffles are typically warmer. Also look for a draft tube (along the zipper), collar (inside the hood) and no-snag zipper guard.

GEAR GUY’S ADVICE?

Get what you can afford. With an inexpensive bag, you can still get outdoors, which is what’s most important, right? If and when you have the dough for a nicer bag, it will make your wilderness adventures a little more luxurious.

CARING FOR YOUR BAG

Properly cared for, a sleeping bag can last 10-20 years. Body oils can compromise insulation, so to prolong your bag’s life, you should sleep in clean base layers. Air out your bag after each night of camping, but don’t leave it exposed to sunlight for long periods.

Post-trip, hang the bag to dry for a day or two, and then place it in a big storage sack or an old pillowcase. Be sure to store it in a dry place. If your bag gets really dirty or starts losing loft, follow the manufacturer instructions for washing it.

"How to Buy the Best Sleeping Bag" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Wearing a bicycle helmet cuts the chance of seriously hurting your head if you’re in a bike accident. But that same helmet might not provide good protection if you wear it while rock climbing or skating. Here’s how to pick a safe and comfortable helmet.

THE PRO-TEC CLASSIC ($55) and CLASSIC JUNIOR ($65, two sizes, protecbrand.com) helmets, certified for skateboarding and cycling, maximize protection for rippers with a high-density shell, inner foam liner and 11 vents. The Junior’s magnetic buckle won’t pinch your neck, and the dual-direction ratcheting adjustment system gives you a customized fit without having to change helmet liners.

CERTIFICATION

Get a helmet designed specifically for your sport. Don’t be distracted by the helmet’s style. What’s more important is if the helmet meets the proper protection standards. Just check for the sticker inside the helmet with the certification on it before buying.

THE PRO-TEC CLASSIC CERTIFIED SNOW STEALTH ($70, protecbrand.com) helmet is certified for skating, cycling and snow activities. It adds removable ear pads, a heat-sealed liner and a goggles clip, enabling three-sport use in all seasons.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Multi-Directional Impact Protection System (MIPS) helmets come in different versions for different sports. The most common design uses a liner inside the helmet that offers more protection in a crash, potentially reducing brain trauma.

With a bicycling helmet, consider what and how you ride. Helmets for the road and cross-country mountain biking prioritize low weight and ventilation; trail and enduro models protect the back of your head; and downhill helmets add a chin bar.

Integrating high-impact-absorbing EPS foam with dual-density foam plus fabric liners, the TRIPLE EIGHT CERTIFIED SWEATSAVER ($70, triple8.com) helmet carries certification for both cycling and skateboarding, saving multi-sporters money. Triple Eight donates a portion of sales to The Skatepark Project for the creation of public skate parks.

When buying any helmet, take a look at the helmet’s design. The safest helmets are those that are rounded without any snag points sticking out that could hurt you during a fall.

Vents are good for keeping your head cool, but more vents equal less foam and, possibly, less protection. So pick a helmet with no more vents than you think you’ll need.

Finally, if you’ll be cycling or skating around traffic, choose a brightly colored helmet so you’ll be easier for drivers to see.

The ventilated LAZER GEKKO MIPS ($65, azersport.us) helmet uses an automatic fit system that enables proper fitting to your head quickly and safely without having to move a dial — and has the protection of MIPS.

THE PROPER FIT

You should have a snug fit, but not so tight that it’s too uncomfortable.

Some helmets come with removable foam inserts to customize a snug fit. With the helmet level on your head, use your fingers to measure the space between your eyebrows and the helmet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3u51W0LN2U?rel=0

You shouldn’t have any more than two fingers of space above your eyebrows. You don’t want it flopping down over your eyes either.

STRAP IS KEY

Always buckle your helmet. It only takes a second to strap it on. And if you fall and it’s not strapped, the helmet isn’t going to stay on and won’t do any good. Plus, you’re not looking any cooler wearing it without the strap.

The FOX RACING YOUTH MAINFRAME HELMET ($80, foxracing.com) combines extended back-of-the-head coverage; cool ventilation; a lightweight fit system; and a removable, moisture-wicking liner with MIPS protection. It’s also available in adult sizes.

HOW MUCH IT’LL COST

These days, some high-end helmets can cost up to several hundred dollars, but don’t worry: you can get a safe cool-looking one for much less.

For trail and bike park riders who go big and fast, the BELL SUPER 3R MIPS ($235, bellhelmets.com) features a removable chin bar, easily changing over between a half-lid for trail mountain biking and a full-face helmet. In full-face mode, big, soft pads cushion your face, while the half-lid setup has a close, ventilated fit.

TRY BEFORE YOU BUY

Whether you go to a bike or skate shop or a big superstore, it’s important that you try on a bunch of different helmets to find the one that fits your head best. Salespeople in small specialty shops can help you find the optimum fit; in big stores you’re usually on your own.

Either way, don’t just pick one that looks cool. If you’re going to wear a helmet, you might as well have the safest one.

For any climbing, the BLACK DIAMOND VISION MIPS ($140, blackdiamondequipment.com) delivers all-day comfort, thanks to a design that’s highly adjustable. The EPS foam puck on the top of the head protects from falling rocks while the EPP foam shell surrounding it provides side impact protection — it’s the best of both worlds. The outer shell is ABS, a more durable type of plastic shell than thin, easy-to-dent polycarbonate.

LEARN MORE

Visit the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute’s Web site at Helmets.org to find out everything there is to know about helmet safety.

There are good reasons the NRS HAVOC LIVERY HELMET ($53, nrs.com) ranks among the most popular with whitewater kayakers and rafters. For starters, it’s made from tough ABS plastic, known to withstand a lot of hard use. The glued-in, closed-cell EVA foam liner and plush-fit pads on the front and back deliver comfort. An adjustable system makes it one of the few one-size-fits-all whitewater buckets, making it a useful spare helmet that anyone you invite can wear. The price helps a lot, too.

"How to Buy a Safe and Comfortable Helmet" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

IO (2 to 3 inches long, green with pink and white stripes down either side): The biggest of the caterpillar bad boys, this one has tufts of hair sticking up all over it.

Small, slow, cute and fuzzy doesn’t always mean harmless.

Caterpillars lurk in trees, shrubs and fields throughout the country. They hang from leaves and crawl across roads and fence posts. They don’t seem like a threat.

But some pack a powerful sting.

HICKORY TUSSOCK (1 inch long, light gray to white hairs with a row of black hairs going down its back): This caterpillar, along with the silver-spotted tiger, is typically the least potent.

Like this: When the hickory tussock moth caterpillar brushes against you, its tiny hairs break off in your skin. You get the sensation of being poked by a bunch of needles.

Or check out the puss caterpillar. When this caterpillar brushes against you, its fine hairs penetrate your skin and release venom. The venom flows through the hollow hairs like water through a straw, straight into you.

PUSS (1 inch long, pear shaped, gray to brown): The stinging spines are located underneath the top layer of hairs. The sting from this caterpillar is usually the most painful.

HOW BAD IS A CATERPILLAR’S STING?

Reactions to caterpillar stings vary. Some people simply can take more pain than others. The potency levels of venom from caterpillar species can differ. And potency might also vary within the same species, depending on the size of the caterpillar.

If you’re stung by one of the big venomous ones, a severe rash might break out, consisting of a few red dots where each hair penetrated your skin. In some cases, the rash might spread and swell. Blisters might also form.

In the most severe cases, which are rare, you might develop swollen lymph nodes, intestinal disorders, difficulty breathing, headache and nausea.

SADDLEBACK (1 inch long, brown on each end, green patch around middle, small brown patch in middle of its back that looks like a saddle): The most common stinging caterpillar.

To make matters worse, your reaction might not show up until hours after your confrontation.

And a dead caterpillar can still sting.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU’RE STUNG BY A CATERPILLAR

If you’re stung and start to hurt, roll some tape with the sticky side out across the affected area. This will help remove any fine hairs that might be stuck in your skin. If it’s on your body or clothing, remove it with protective gloves. Then scrub the area with soap and cool water to wash out venom.

Immediately apply an ice pack to reduce swelling and pain.

An antihistamine might be helpful in some cases, but be sure to check with a trusted adult first. If your reaction is severe, you might need to see a doctor. See the BSA’s medication use guidelines for more information.

SILVER-SPOTTED TIGER (1 1/2 inches long, covered with tufts of hair that can be either brown or black): When this caterpillar matures, the body remains a darker color while the tufts of hair become gray to white.

The secret to not getting stung is to learn and look. Know that caterpillars are generally out during the summer and fall. Look before you reach for bushes, flowers, shrubs or tree branches.

"Watch Out for These 5 Stinging Caterpillars" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

• Click here for the Gear Guy’s sleeping bag buying guide
• Find expert tips to help you get a good night’s sleep

You might not think your sleeping pad or air mattress is important until you spend a miserable night on a bad one. Follow these buying tips and grab a top pick.

SLEEPING PAD BUYING GUIDE

There are two types of sleeping pads:

Closed-cell foam pads: These simple pads insulate well and are lighter, cheaper and more durable than air mats. But they’re also much bulkier and usually need to be carried under external straps on a pack rather than inside it.

Air mats: With lots of choices in a range of prices, air mats are far superior in comfort to foam pads.

Self-inflating air mats mostly inflate when unrolled but usually require a few breaths to firm up. Other mats come with a small pump or sack with a mating valve for inflating.

Air mats are lightweight and pack down enough to fit inside your backpack. For three-season backpacking, air mats typically weigh under 1½ pounds and roll up to slightly larger than a liter bottle.

CONSIDER THESE FACTORS BEFORE CHOOSING A SLEEPING PAD

• Air mats occasionally puncture and go flat. Many come with a patch kit, but it can be difficult to locate a hole and repair it in the field. A mat’s denier rating indicates how strong its fabric is. The lower the rating, the softer — but lighter — the mat will be. A high denier rating means the fabric is tough but heavier.

• The standard size for sleeping pads is 20 x 72 inches. Taller than 6 feet? Most manufacturers make a larger size, but it’ll cost you.

• Some air pads make loud crunching noises when you shift around on them, which can be an annoyance to tentmates.

• For car camping, there’s almost no limit on size, so don’t fret over buying a lightweight backpacking air pad. A bulky air mattress — or old school cot — will do the job.

• Before buying, make sure the mat or pad is comfortable to you. The energy you lose through a bad night’s sleep will far exceed the energy you save by carrying a lighter pad on the trail. Make sure you get a pad on which you can sleep comfortably.

WHAT’S THE R-VALUE?

Sleeping pads and air mats are not just for padding. They also protect you in chilly temperatures and provide critical insulation against the ground. The R-value measures how well it insulates:

• An R-value below 3 indicates minimal insulation, adequate only for warm nights.

• A value of 3 or higher denotes a mat with insulation for camping on cool nights (above freezing temperatures). Chronically cold sleepers should find a mat rated closer to 4.

• Look for 5 or higher for camping on frozen ground or in sub-freezing temperatures.

GEAR GUY’S TOP PICKS FOR SLEEPING PADS AND AIR MATS

Outdoor beds don’t get simpler or cheaper than a foam pad, and the THERM-A-REST Z LITE SOL ($36, thermarest.com) sets the standard in this category for packability, durability and low weight — if minimalist on comfort. (Tip: Look for soft ground like pine needles or sand.) This egg-carton pattern closed-cell foam pad folds up like an accordion and lies flat when you open it up, and it has a heat-reflecting surface. But at 3⁄4 inch thick and a 2.0 R-value, it isn’t super comfy. 14 oz.

With 2 1⁄2 inches of thickness, body-conforming chambers and numerous air pockets, hard ground goes soft on the KLYMIT STATIC V ($60, klymit.com). The typical 72-inch length gets a comfort boost from the 23-inch width, more than many regular air mats, while the 75-denier polyester shell fabric is tougher than what many competitors use. It’s still just a few ounces north of a pound. 1 lb. 3 oz.

At 3 1⁄4 inches thick with outer chambers to keep you on the mat, the BIG AGNES INSULATED AIR CORE ULTRA ($80, bigagnes.com) delivers deluxe comfort at a good value, reasonable weight and low bulk. Separate high-volume valves and an upcycled inflation sack make inflating and deflating quicker. Synthetic insulation and heat-reflective technology give it an R-value of 4.5, good for nights around freezing. Nylon ripstop fabric and aviation-grade thermoplastic polyurethane lamination improves durability while minimizing weight. 1 lb. 6 oz.

Three inches thick, with waffle construction that improves stability and distributes weight evenly, the NEMO TENSOR ULTRALIGHT INSULATED SLEEPING PAD ($190, nemoequipment.com) inflates quickly using a Vortex pump with a micro-adjustable valve for precise inflation control. This saves your breath and minimizes moisture (a heat conductor) entering the mat. Two layers of suspended metalized film keep the mat quiet. This year’s updated model uses a continuous thermoplastic polyurethane film to prevent convective heat loss, raising the R-value from 3.5 to 4.2 — without any weight gain. 15 oz.

For starters, the SEA TO SUMMIT ETHER LIGHT XT INSULATED AIR SLEEPING MAT ($180, seatosummit.com) blends two types of insulation: a quiet, non-woven fabric with a metalized layer that reflects radiant heat and a hollow-core insulation that lofts to prevent convective heat loss, giving this mattress an R-value of 3.2. At 4 inches thick, the Ether Light XT incorporates a matrix of interconnected air chambers that conform to your body. Its 21 1⁄2-inch width at the shoulders exceeds most regular-sized mats, and it weighs barely more than a pound. 17.3 oz.

"How to Buy a Good Camping Air Mat or Sleeping Pad" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you want to chat with friends on the ski slopes or you need to send a message during an emergency, having a communication device sure comes in handy.

TWO-WAY RADIOS

The classic portable walkie-talkies are used primarily for communicating with party members over relatively short distances: While some devices have a range up to 25 miles, terrain and other conditions often limit the signal to a couple of miles.

Look for:

• Ergonomic radios that are easy to use, like when wearing gloves.
• High-powered (1-2 watts) models that provide better reception — even in steep terrain — and better signal quality.
• Radios with a Continuous Tone Coded Squelch System (CTCSS) or Continuous Digital Coded Squelch System (CDCSS), which provide a privacy or interference-elimination code in addition to 22 channels, helping avoid the channel clutter of other conversations in busy places.
• Features like paging, scanning, weather radio, noise filter and keypad lock.
• Even though different types of walkie-talkies can communicate, buy units in pairs to enable the use of all features on your unit.

The durable and rechargeable MOTOROLA TALKABOUT T600 H2O ($120/pair, shop.motorolasolutions.com) is waterproof and floats, and has 22 channels and 121 privacy codes, hands-free operation, a Push-to-Talk power boost when extended range is needed, an NOAA weather channel and a keypad lock. It covers a range of up to 35 miles and runs on three AA batteries. 1 lb. 9 oz.

ONE-WAY SATELLITE MESSENGERS

For sending messages from the wilderness to a party back in civilization, look into a one-way satellite messenger, like the SPOT GEN4 ($150, findmespot.com), with options that range from sending customized messages (you can program up to 1,250 messages) and your location to specific recipients to sending an SOS to the appropriate emergency-response team. Spot requires a service plan; prices start at $12/month. One drawback: It doesn’t receive messages. 5 oz.

TWO-WAY SATELLITE MESSENGERS

The most versatile messaging devices for the backcountry are two-way messengers, used primarily for multiday wilderness adventures. They provide the ability to share your location as well as exchange text messages with another party.

The BIVYSTICK ($350, bivy.com) is a smart little device that’s half the weight of a smartphone and, when paired with a phone, provides two-way texting via satellite to phone numbers or email addresses. Features include location sharing and tracking, SOS signaling with Global Rescue and preset check-in messaging. Downside: It isn’t cheap and requires a data plan (purchased separately, $18 to $50/month). 3.5 oz.

The popular, compact and lightweight GARMIN INREACH MINI ($350, garmin.com) sends messages either directly or with a paired cellphone, and allows texting back and forth. The GARMIN MONTANA 700I ($700, garmin.com) expands the backcountry tool kit with GPS functionality and a 5-inch display and keyboard for typing messages more easily. Garmin’s annual plans start at $12/month. 3.5 oz.

"How to Choose a Backcountry Communication Device" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Human waste doesn’t always decompose easily in some environments, like deserts, caves and glaciers. To reduce your impact on these places, pack out everything instead of digging catholes to bury your waste.

Packing out waste requires preparation. You can make or buy a pack-out kit. To make one, here’s what you’ll need:

• A large self-sealing plastic bag
• One paper bag
• One-quarter cup of cat litter

Put the cat litter in the paper bag, fold it closed and place the bag inside the plastic bag. You will need at least one kit per day in the backcountry in these environments. After you do your business in one of the kits, seal it up — along with any used toilet paper — and toss it in a sturdy plastic trash bag. The cat litter should help minimize the odor.

Women can pack out used tampons or pads in a designated plastic bag with a zipper or a water bottle labeled as trash. Be Prepared by bringing a few extra menstrual products on your outing.

"How To Make a ‘Pack-out Kit’ for Carrying Human Waste" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Never eat wild plants unless you know for sure what they are and how your body reacts to them. Ingesting some plants might even be deadly.

Here are some dangerous wild berries to avoid:

HOLLY

Small red berries. Grows in Southeastern states. Symptoms: vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration and drowsiness.

LILY OF THE VALLEY

Small red berries. Grows in parts of Eastern states. Symptoms: nausea and vomiting, mouth and abdominal pain, cramps, diarrhea and irregular heart rate.

NIGHTSHADE

Glossy black or dark purple berries. Grows along West Coast and in Michigan and New York. Symptoms: cramps, irregular heartbeat, tremors and paranoia.

POKEWEED

Clusters of dark purple berries. Grows over most of Eastern and Central states, as well as West Coast. Symptoms: stomach pain, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and low blood pressure.

YEW

Small red berries, usually with an open end. The berry’s flesh is safe, but the seed is highly toxic if chewed. Grows in Alaska, West Coast and Northeastern states. Symptoms: confusion, difficulty breathing, nausea and vomiting.

AN IMPORTANT NOTE: Just because birds or animals can eat certain berries, it doesn’t mean you can. If you start feeling ill and believe poisonous berries are the culprit, call your local poison control center.

"Tasty Treat or Fatal Fruit? Here Are 5 Dangerous Wild Berries To Avoid" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

If you’re hiking in a dry area, there’s always a chance of afternoon showers.

If you’re hiking up a mountain, the temperature at the top might be completely different than the temperature at the bottom.

Be Prepared by knowing how to handle sudden changes in weather.

THUNDERSTORMS

Thunderstorms occur when warm, moist air creates updrafts that form extra large raindrops. Lightning happens when positive and negative electrical charges separate, build up and then discharge in different parts of the clouds and on the ground beneath the clouds.

Some lightning strikes the ground, but most of it jumps the gap from one part of a cloud to another.

There is no safe place outside in a thunderstorm. You are better off walking to a car or building than risking staying outside. When thunder roars, go indoors and wait at least 30 minutes after the storm has passed before going back outside.

If you are caught outdoors in a thunderstorm, do not stand in open areas or near lightning targets such as trees, power poles or wire fences. Metal conducts electricity, so also stay away from metal poles (such as tent poles). Remove any metallic frame packs, and do not stay near them.

Water also conducts electricity, so if you are boating or swimming, get to land immediately when a storm is approaching. If you are hiking at high altitude, descend to a lower elevation as quickly as possible.

If a lightning storm catches your group in the open, spread out with each person at least 100 feet from anyone else.

TORNADOES

A tornado can form when a weather system of hot, dry air collides with a warm, moist front. Tornadoes are violent storms with winds of up to 300 miles per hour.

Most tornadoes last a few minutes and produce paths of damage only a few hundred yards wide. Some rare tornadoes, however, are more than a mile wide and last much longer.

Weather bureaus issue watches when conditions are right for tornadoes and warnings when they have been sighted. Pay attention to changes in the sky, including:

• dark clouds sometimes tinged with green;
• heavy rain and hail;
• a funnel-shaped cloud descending from the clouds above;
• a roaring noise similar to that of a freight train.

Most tornado casualties are caused by flying debris. If you are caught in the open when a tornado approaches, get to a low spot, lie face down and cover your head. A ditch or other low spot is a good place to lie down if there is no floodwater.

FLOODS

Some floods occur when winter or spring rains combine with melting snows to fill river basins with too much water, a process that takes several days.

Flash floods occur when a storm turns dry streambeds and small creeks into rushing torrents in just a few minutes. If you camp on low ground, you might be caught by surprise, especially when asleep at night.

When traveling where flash floods are possible, be aware of routes you can use to reach the safety of higher ground. Pitch your tents above the high-water marks of past floods.

If you are caught in a flood, float on your back with your feet aimed downstream, and use them to push off boulders and other obstacles. If you are able to reach higher ground, stay calm and wait for help to arrive.

HEAT

In many parts of the country, the temperature can rise quickly and dramatically in the spring. It could be 60 degrees and rainy the day you leave for the trail, and then 85 degrees and sunny two days later.

Check the forecast and pack accordingly. Plan ahead so you know when and where you can refill your supply of water.

Take it easy during the hottest part of the day, and rest often in shady areas. Keep an eye on your companions to see how they are coping with the conditions. If anyone is having trouble, get them to a shady spot and have them drink plenty of water.

COLD

Just as it can get hot quickly, it can cool down fast in the spring — especially if the trail leads to a significant altitude change. A warm hike in shorts and a cotton T-shirt can turn dangerous quickly after a rainstorm and cool front move through the area.

Always carry rain gear, even if the chance of rain is slim. Wear non-cotton clothing so you can stay warm even if you get wet. And be on guard for hypothermia, which can be a threat even in mild temperatures if you get cold and wet with no way to dry off and warm up.

If you or one of your buddies starts to shiver, get them some warm, dry clothes as soon as possible. Offer warm liquids if available; otherwise, make sure they stay hydrated.

THE BSA’S HAZARDOUS WEATHER ONLINE TRAINING PROGRAM is available to anyone age 13 and up. Take it for free in the BSA Learn Center section of my.scouting.org. (You’ll need to create a free account if you don’t already have one.)

Watches and Warnings

The best way to avoid weather emergencies is to watch the weather. It’s great to leave your electronic devices at home, but somebody needs to keep an eye on the short-term weather forecast when you’re spending multiple days in the backcountry.

Forecasters with the National Weather Service issue watches and warnings to alert the public to potentially violent or hazardous weather.

A WATCH means hazardous weather is possible or conditions are favorable for it to develop.

A WARNING is a more urgent notice that hazardous conditions already exist or are heading your way.

"Be Prepared for These 5 Common Weather Hazards" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whether you want to scale the walls at your local climbing gym, go bouldering or rope up outside, you’ll want to know the basic and best gear you’ll need. Talk with a qualified instructor who can help you decide what equipment is appropriate for your skill level.

THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES OF CLIMBING:

Bouldering involves practicing climbing moves close to the ground while not attached to a belay rope. Anyone bouldering should have two or three spotters in position, ready to break a person’s fall and help prevent injury. You shouldn’t be bouldering any higher than your shoulder’s height.

Top-rope climbing is when a climber is secured to ropes anchored above them and throughout the climb. Belayers manage the ropes from the top or bottom of the climbing routes.

In lead climbing, the climber is secured to belay ropes below. During the ascent, the climber inserts artificial protection like cams, stoppers or other hardware into cracks in the rock, and then attaches the rope with carabiners or quickdraws (two carabiners connected with a piece of short, sturdy material).

Sport climbing: Climbing sport routes by clipping onto bolts demands additional safety gear. Your qualified instructor should supply what you need.

THE FIRST AND MOST BASIC GEAR FOR CLIMBING ARE SHOES

Athletic shoes and light hikers are fine for beginning climbers. But if you want more performance and control, you’ll need climbing-specific shoes. There are several types, from tight-fitting sock-like climbing slippers, to flexible and super grippy friction shoes, to edging shoes, which provide performance with more comfort.

Climbing shoes should be tight but not painfully so. You might size down a size or two from your street shoe when picking a climbing shoe. They are also usually available for rent at climbing gyms and are sometimes provided for use at Scout camps.

If you’re just getting into this sport, you’ll want all-around climbing shoes like Black Diamond Momentum Climbing Shoes ($100, blackdiamondequipment.com, 1 lb. 4 oz.). With a comfortable, flat-shape, sticky but durable outsole, stretchy uppers and hook-and-loop closure to easily put them on or take them off, these shoes should take you from the gym to easy, multipitch routes.

Another affordable all-around shoe is the Mad Rock Drifter ($59, madrock.com, 16 oz.). The medium stiffness, leather uppers, slightly asymmetrical shape, rubber outsoles and hook-and-loop closure strike a neat balance between comfort and performance on any surface.

If you’re interested in steep sport climbing outdoors or bouldering indoors, the La Sportiva Solution ($180, sportiva.com, 1 lb. 5 oz.) is a top performer. Its aggressively downturned toe, good sensitivity, sticky rubber and supportive platform help it stay securely in place on the tiniest footholds.

A HELMET IS MANDATORY GEAR FOR ANY OUTDOOR CLIMBING

A helmet is one of the most important pieces of climbing gear because it protects your head from hitting something as well as from falling rocks and gear. The climber, the belayer and anyone walking around the climbing area should be wearing one.

Wear only an approved climbing helmet; bicycle and football helmets aren’t acceptable because they’re not designed to protect you from falling objects.

If you’re warm-natured or climbing somewhere hot, look for a light-colored helmet with plenty of ventilation. But most important, pick one that fits comfortably snug.

The Black Diamond Vision Helmet ($100, blackdiamondequipment.com, 7.5 oz.) delivers ultimate protection with comfort. The most durable foam helmet the company makes, the Vision provides superior side and back coverage while remaining very lightweight. Ventilation ports help you keep a cool head on warm days, and integrated headlamp clips are low profile.

WHEN TYING INTO A ROPE, YOU NEED — OF COURSE — A HARNESS

The harness is a belt system that fits around a climber’s hips and legs and safely secures you to a climbing rope. A harness comfortably distributes your weight and allows you to easily attach yourself to the belay rope as you ascend. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on how to attach to the harness. The waist belt and loops distribute your weight in many directions for comfort and safety in the event of a fall.

Though it’s possible to tie a seat harness from a single piece of webbing, a commercially made harness is more comfy. Pick a harness that is tight but not so much that it restricts your movement. When in doubt, choose the smaller size.

The Black Diamond Momentum ($70, blackdiamondequipment.com, 8.5 oz.) sports comfort, easily adjustable leg loops, a pre-threaded waistbelt buckle for safety and a pair of gear loops. Plus, the adjustability range ensures it’ll be used until the time comes to replace it.

MORE GEAR YOU CAN GET

• CHALK BAG: Climbing chalk helps your hands get a better grip by keeping them dry. The bag holding this chalk can be attached around your waist.

• BELAY AND RAPPEL DEVICE: These devices serve as brakes to help the belayer or rappeler apply friction to the climbing rope.

If you want to get a belay-rappel device, those come in a variety of designs. The Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay/Rappel Device ($22, blackdiamondequipment.com, 2.3 oz.) is a traditional tube-style device with ridged grooves that create high friction on a rope, for stopping a falling leader or rappelling confidently using a rope with a diameter from 7.7 to 11mm. It’s not auto-locking, but it’s a popular piece of gear for teaching a valuable skill.

The Black Diamond Big Air XP Package ($33, blackdiamondequipment.com, 4.7 oz.) includes the ATC-XP belay-rappel device and a BD screwgate locking carabiner.

• CARABINER: A ring with a spring-loaded gate used to connect pieces of climbing equipment and secure rope. Be careful when shopping, as some look-alike carabiners are not designed for climbing.

• QUICKDRAW: A quickdraw attaches your rope to a protective piece on the rock, like a bolt or stopper. Quickdraws are designed to easily attach to a bolt and clip a rope in seconds — something climbers appreciate when dangling from a tricky handhold.

• CRASH PAD: This adds protection in case you fall while bouldering. You shouldn’t be bouldering any higher than your shoulder’s height.

• CLIMBING ROPES: The rope helps you climb or descend safely. Dynamic ropes are designed to stretch in case of a fall, while static ropes don’t stretch as much and are better suited for rappelling.

• STOPPERS: Also called “nuts,” these can be placed in a crack of a rock to serve as a temporary anchor.

• CAMS: Like a stopper, this anchoring device can fit into a crack. You pull a trigger and release it to fit the cam into a crack.

CLIMBING SAFELY

Before you go climbing, check the safety rules in the BSA Climb On Safely and Belay On guides. Climbing using ropes and bouldering (climbing a few feet above the ground without a rope) is an appropriate activity for all Scouts; however, some techniques, like belaying, which involves rope work to prevent a climber from falling far, should be done only by older Scouts.

For any climbing activity, make sure to have qualified adult supervision, at least two qualified instructors, an established safe area to climb and the proper equipment. Everyone should be physically fit and mentally ready for the climb.

Visit go.scoutlife.org/climbsafely for more info.

"How to Buy Rock Climbing Gear" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Rope tackle allows you to move a large load with a small amount of force. It works on the same principle as using ropes and pulleys for lifting or hauling loads.

Here’s how to set up rope tackle to move a log. For best results, you’ll want to use a strong rope that doesn’t stretch much.

Step 1: Tie one end of a long piece of rope to a tree or other secure anchor.

Step 2: Tie one end of a second, shorter rope around a log using a timber hitch. Form an eye in the other end of the second rope by tying a bowline knot.

Step 3: Pass the running end of the long rope through the eye you’ve just tied in the shorter rope. You may want to use a carabiner here to reduce friction.

Step 4: Check that the anchor is secure and all knots are correct.

Step 5: You can now move the log by pulling on the running end of the longer rope. The effort required to move the log is half what it would be if you pulled a rope tied directly to the log.

"How to Use Rope Tackle to Move a Log" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Whatever your winter activity, staying warm requires finding the right combination of layers. The specific layers depend on your body, the temperature, wind speeds and how much you sweat.

BASIC TIPS FOR STAYING COMFORTABLE IN THE COLD

MOVE. Clothing does not produce heat; it only traps the heat your body produces. If you feel cold, start moving or pick up your pace.

PACE YOURSELF. Avoid sweating heavily, because wet clothing conducts heat away from your body. Set a pace that keeps you warm without causing you to overheat.

FUEL UP. In cold, dry conditions, you become dehydrated more quickly than you realize. Drink frequently. Carry a thermos with a hot drink. Your body also needs more fuel in colder temps to maintain its internal furnace. Eat high-fat snacks like chocolate and nuts, because fat is a slow-burning fuel that keeps your body going. Don’t underestimate your caloric needs.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR BODY

Wear a layering system that includes a wicking layer, one or more insulation layers and a waterproof layer. Swap these on and off as much as needed. Put on an extra layer when stopping for a short break, and take it off when you start moving again (unless you’ve gotten cold).

The Shell or Windproofing Layer

The outermost layer, the shell jacket and pants protect you from wind and wet conditions.

There are two types of shells: the hard shell is a lightweight layer that’s windproof and waterproof, capable of handling heavy rain and very wet conditions; a soft shell is made of a more flexible, soft-faced material that’s windproof yet highly breathable, and water-resistant enough to protect you against everything except a heavy downpour.

For hitting the slopes, you’ll need plenty of insulation — plus a hooded shell that fights off wind and flying snow. The COLUMBIA WHIRLIBIRD II INTERCHANGE JACKET ($140, columbia.com) combines three jackets in one with a waterproof-breathable shell and an inner jacket packed with synthetic insulation that also features a thermal reflective liner to put body heat to good use. The two jackets can each be worn alone or zipped together for the coldest conditions; the shell has a lined hood and a powder skirt. Columbia’s Outgrown system lets you extend the sleeves by 1 1⁄2 inches to accommodate a growing kid.

Insulation or Warmth Layer

The insulation layer is worn atop the base layer and is designed to provide the majority of your insulation. It should be made of fleece, wool, down or synthetic insulation and can be a pullover, zip-up jacket or vest, depending on how much insulation you need.

How much insulation you need depends on many variables, but a versatile piece that can be worn as an outer layer or as part of a system is the PATAGONIA BETTER SWEATER ($89, patagonia.com). This full-zip midweight jacket will get plenty of use from downhill ski runs (under an insulated shell) to chilly days hiking, sledding and traveling to school. It has two zippered hand pockets and a tall collar to block cold wind.
 
With some moderate- to high-exertion activities, a vest strikes a good balance of trapping core heat while letting the body release excess heat and moisture. The REI 650 DOWN VEST ($60, rei.com) marries a windproof polyester shell fabric with a durable, water-repellent finish to shed light precipitation with 650-fill power down for a good warmth-to-weight ratio and packability — it stuffs into one of the zippered hand pockets.

Base or Wicking Layer

Also commonly known as long underwear, the base layer is worn closest to your skin. Its main job is to wick away sweat and moisture so your skin stays dry.

Wear it relatively tight to the skin and use only wool or synthetic base layers. Never use cotton because it will not keep you warm once it’s wet, whether from sweat or precipitation.

These base layers come in various weights, from heavy for frigid conditions to lightweight for warmer temps and activities that cause a lot of sweating, such as strenuous hiking and cross-country skiing.

It’s a good idea to have one extra pair of base layers to change into every night at camp.

As with insulation, a midweight base layer delivers the most versatility in a range of temps. The REI MERINO MIDWEIGHT CREW BASE LAYER TOP ($50, rei.com) accomplishes exactly that. Its ultrafine 18.5-gauge merino wool wicks sweat off skin and feels soft, and wool naturally resists getting stinky. The close fit means optimal wicking, but underarm gussets and flat seams mean full range of motion and no chafing. Plus, a droptail hem keeps this shirt tucked in — no snow in the pants.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR HEAD

You’ve surely heard this before: If you’re cold, put on a hat.

Just as with any exposed skin on your body, you can lose lots of heat through your bare head. So cover up with a wool or synthetic stocking cap. Those with earflaps can be especially handy.

To trap the maximum body heat, pull your jacket’s hood over your head. And when the air is so cold it seems to take your breath away, try wearing something to cover your face such as a face mask, scarf, bandana, neck gaiter or balaclava (a pullover hat with a cutout for your face).

During the winter, days are shorter so it’s always a good idea to carry a headlamp with you in case you need to find your way in the dark.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR FEET

Nothing can cause more misery than hiking around in soggy boots. If you want to keep your feet warm, keep them dry. Invest in a pair of waterproof boots, preferably those with warm insulation and removable liners so you can dry them out each night.

Many people underestimate the value of a quality pair of socks. For cold weather, go with wool (though synthetic blend works OK, too), and consider wearing a silk or neoprene sock liner under it to wick away sweat and minimize blistering.

Also, if you’re expecting to be in very wet conditions, try wearing an old plastic grocery bag between your liner sock and your wool sock as a moisture barrier. For really cold conditions, try cutting up pieces of an old foam sleeping pad to make insoles for your boots that provide added insulation from the cold ground.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR HANDS

Start with a thin pair of wool or synthetic liner gloves, then layer them with an outer waterproof glove or mitten. Mittens are often slightly warmer because they let you share warmth between fingers, but gloves give you better dexterity.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR TUMMY

When you keep your body well fueled, it acts like an internal furnace that keeps you warm. Try to eat foods packed with slow-burning calories, like nuts, cheese, peanut butter and hard sausage.

Even though you’re not hot and sweating, cold weather can still dehydrate you quickly. So drink plenty of water on the trail. If your pee is dark yellow, then you’re not drinking enough!

For really cold climates, consider carrying an insulated water bottle or hydration bladder, or keep a small canteen of water close to your body to prevent it from freezing.

WINTER GEAR FOR YOUR BOTTOM

This may seem silly, but always pack a small square-shape scrap of foam pad to use for a sit cushion or kneeling pad. Besides providing a layer of insulation between your body and the cold ground, the pad can also help you avoid getting wet.

WINTER GEAR FOR SLEEPING

For winter camping, your best bet is to use a layered sleeping system.

Start with your standard sleeping bag. Assuming it’s not rated for freezing temps, you can up the warmth of your bag with a silk or fleece liner and by wearing warm clothes and a stocking cap to bed. You can also fill up space in your sleeping bag (thus keeping you warmer) with other pieces of clothing. Added bonus: Your clothes will be toasty warm in the morning.

For truly cold temps, layer your sleeping bag with an overbag, basically an oversized sleeping bag that provides an extra layer of insulation that can boost the temp rating of your sleeping bag by 20 degrees or more.

Next, be sure to have a single or double layer of sleeping pads to insulate you from the cold ground. It’s great to have one pad in between your sleeping bag and your overbag.

Finally, camping inside a structure like a quinzee (also called a snow dome), snow cave or igloo, or a four-season tent will keep you out of the wind and weather while you sleep.

"Stay Warm and Dry This Winter With These Gear Tips" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

For the coolest experiences, visit a bat roost with a sizable colony.

Bat “emergences,” also called “outflights,” are spectacular shows that can last for hours. Here are a few of the best bat-watching sites in the United States.

ANN W. RICHARDS CONGRESS AVENUE BRIDGE

Austin, Texas | tpwd.texas.gov

Texas reigns supreme for bat viewing. It boasts the world’s largest urban bat colony. Austin, the “bat capital of the United States,” is famous for its bridge-dwelling bats; 1.5 million free-tailed bats live in crevices under the Congress Avenue Bridge.

VISIT: This roost attracts hundreds of spectators nightly who watch from the bridge railing, sidewalk or observation lawn (bring a blanket or lawn chair). You can also watch from nearby restaurant balconies or from the water. Bring or rent a kayak, book a guided sunset paddling tour or take a bat-viewing cruise on the lake.

BEST VIEWING: August to September

ADMISSION: Free or small fee

BRACKEN CAVE

San Antonio, Texas | batcon.org

Texas is also home to the largest colony on the planet. Fifteen to 20 million Mexican free-tailed bats call Bracken Cave home each summer. Each night, they swarm at the entrance like a living tornado before heading out to gobble literally tons of moths. Emergences here can last more than three hours. The dawn return is also impressive as bats zoom back into the cave like furry missiles.

VISIT: Check Bat Conservation International for viewing nights. (Note: Dates fill up fast!) If you can’t get there, a webcam is just a click away.

BEST VIEWING: July to August

ADMISSION: Donation requested (free with BCI membership)

ORIENT MINE

Saguache, Colorado | olt.org

Abandoned mines spell danger for humans, but these artificial “caves” provide critical shelter for millions of bats around the globe. Colorado’s largest bat colony finds refuge each summer in this old iron mine in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

VISIT: A 1-mile hike leads to a viewing area where you’ll marvel at 250,000 free-tailed bats emerging for nearly an hour. Call ahead to check that bat tours are taking place.

BEST VIEWING: July to August

ADMISSION: Free

SPIRIT OF SUWANNEE MUSIC PARK

Live Oak, Florida | floridabats.org

Do bats enjoy country music? Maybe not, but they do appreciate this park’s giant bat house near the Suwannee River. More than 10,000 free-tailed bats delight spectators as they wing their way over an open field toward their nightly insect buffet.

VISIT: To witness the outflight, you may purchase an inexpensive evening pass or bring your tent and camp.

BEST VIEWING: May to September

ADMISSION: Small fee

CARLSBAD CAVERNS NATIONAL PARK

Carlsbad, New Mexico | nps.gov

One of the world’s most famous caves is Carlsbad Caverns, where free-tailed bats have entertained visitors for decades. The park’s 400,000 to 800,000 bats (including cave myotis and fringed myotis) put on a great show as they swirl about the entrance before heading off into the night.

VISIT: Arrive early enough to catch the ranger-led interpretive program at the amphitheater.

BEST VIEWING: August to September

ADMISSION: Free

SAUTA CAVE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

Scottsboro, Alabama | fws.gov

With the biggest cave emergence east of the Mississippi River, Sauta Cave doesn’t disappoint. More than 200,000 gray bats live here in summer; it’s their largest maternity colony (where female bats give birth) anywhere.

VISIT: An observation deck is located at the cave entrance, but bring a hat or umbrella to avoid being “rained on” as the bats pass overhead.

BEST VIEWING: June to August

ADMISSION: Free

UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA

Gainesville, Florida | floridamuseum.ufl.edu

On the Florida Gators’ campus stand the world’s three largest occupied bat houses (imagine big wooden sheds on telephone poles). A whopping 450,000 to 500,000 free-tailed bats live here all year, along with some smaller cousins — evening bats and southeastern myotis. The myotis relish mosquitoes and other aquatic insects, making them welcome backyard visitors.

VISIT: An observation area offers a kiosk and benches for your viewing enjoyment. Or watch the acrobatics via live cams.

BEST VIEWING: May to September

ADMISSION: Free

MILLIE HILL MINE

Iron Mountain, Michigan | michigan.org

Now recognized as one of the most important bat hibernation sites in the upper Midwest, this abandoned iron mine was nearly sealed off as a safety hazard. Fortunately, the bats were saved just in time; conservation groups and local businesses built a special steel cage over the mineshaft that gives bats access and keeps people from falling in.

VISIT: You can see between 35,000 and 50,000 little brown bats and big brown bats exiting the mine during peak migration times.

BEST VIEWING: April to May and September to October

ADMISSION: Free

NICKAJACK CAVE WILDLIFE REFUGE

Chattanooga, Tennessee | tva.com

Gray bats, an endangered species of the Southeast, live in caves year-round. Nickajack Cave is one of their few summer roosts and one of the Volunteer State’s most important caves.

VISIT: Stroll the boardwalk to a viewing platform, where you can watch 100,000 bats take flight over water. Or paddle your canoe from the Maple View Recreation Area for an aquatic viewing experience. Local outfitters also offer bat tours by canoe.

BEST VIEWING: April to September

ADMISSION: Free or small fee

ECKERT JAMES RIVER BAT CAVE PRESERVE

Mason, Texas | tpwd.texas.gov

Another superb viewing spot in the Texas Hill Country, this rustic Nature Conservancy preserve is home to 4 million free-tailed bats. Excellent interpretive tours and sunrise bat viewings are offered.

VISIT: Closed for the 2021 season due to COVID-19. Next year, call ahead for river-crossing information — there’s no bridge, making the adventure all the more exciting!

BEST VIEWING: May to September

ADMISSION: Small fee

WHY SO FEW SITES UP NORTH?

An introduced fungal disease called white-nose syndrome (WNS) has killed more than 7 million bats in North America. Discovered in a New York cave in 2006, it has spread rapidly, wiping out bat colonies while they hibernate. Many popular viewing sites in the North, like Canoe Creek State Park in Pennsylvania, have few bats left. Some good news, however, is the recent discovery that a soil bacterium that keeps bananas from growing moldy shows promise as a preventative treatment for WNS.

BAT-WATCHING TIPS

For the best viewing experience:

• Arrive well before the emergence.
• Don’t shine a light into the bats’ roost.
• Keep your voice down.
• Check the weather forecast: Rain and temperatures below 50 degrees are not ideal conditions for bats to catch bugs.

DON’T HAVE A BIG COLONY NEARBY?

An electronic device called a “bat detector” can help you locate individuals or small groups of bats feeding away from their roosts. go.scoutlife.org/batdetector

"Here Are 10 of the Best Places Around the U.S. To See Bats" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Here are 10 fun facts about Yellowstone National Park.

THE NATION’S FIRST NATIONAL PARK

1. Established March 1, 1872, Yellowstone was the world’s first national park.

ONE HUGE PARK

2. The park covers 3,500 square miles. It’s in parts of three states: Wyoming, Montana and Idaho.

3. The highest point in the park is the 11,372-foot Eagle Peak.

WILDLIFE

4. Yellowstone is home to 285 species of birds, 67 species of mammals, 19 species of fish, six species of reptiles and five species of amphibians.

WATERFALLS

5. There are 290 waterfalls in the park!

SEISMIC ACTIVITY

6. All of Yellowstone is one massive active volcano. (It hasn’t erupted in half a million years!)

7. There are an estimated 2,000 earthquakes each year.

GEYSERS

8. Yellowstone has 465 active geysers.

9. The park’s most well-known geyser, Old Faithful, erupts every 60 to 110 minutes.

LARGEST HOT SPRING

10. Yellowstone’s Grand Prismatic is the largest hot spring in the country.

"10 Fun Facts About Yellowstone" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

You’re ready to go backpacking, but looking at the cost of all the needed gear has you wondering: Will you even make it to the trailhead?

That’s understandable. Prices can be intimidating, but there’s good news. You don’t need to drop a small fortune to outfit yourself for backpacking — in fact, you can get functional gear relatively inexpensively.

Here are some tips on how to find high-quality gear at discounted prices and a few suggestions on key pieces of backpacking gear that are inexpensive all the time.

KNOW WHERE AND WHEN TO BUY

Follow these simple tips to find the best deals on gear:

• Wait for sales. Don’t buy last minute. Whenever possible, wait for big sales, when websites and stores slash prices by up to 50% or more, which happen regularly in spring, late summer or fall, and the holidays.

• Shop discount sites. REI Outlet, Sierra Trading Post, theclymb.com and others offer high-quality gear and apparel from top brands for bargain prices, because the products have been discontinued or replaced.

• Buy used gear. It’s unbelievable how much slightly used gear there is for sale by people who bought something, hardly used it and are selling it at prices far below new. Find a used-gear exchange near home, a local outdoor-gear store or hiking club selling used gear.

• Shop big-box stores. While much of the stuff they offer does not cut it for backcountry use, you might be surprised at the functionality of some backpacks, tents, backpacking stoves or rain jackets for sale.

10 INEXPENSIVE PIECES OF GREAT BACKPACKING GEAR

BACKPACKS

A backpack should fit your torso and have basic features suited to multiday backcountry hikes. The Gregory Icarus 40 ($120, gregorypacks.com) has an adjustable harness to fit torsos measuring 13 to 18 inches, as well as features found on good-quality packs like multiple external pockets and durable fabrics. 2 lbs. 4 oz.

The BSA Ultralight 50L Backpack ($100, scoutshop.org) has an adjustable unisex harness that fits torsos 15 to 21 inches, an aluminum internal frame that carries 30 pounds or more comfortably, the capacity for weeklong trips, plus five exterior pockets. 3 lbs. 6 oz.

TENT

Tents sturdy and light enough for backpacking rarely come cheap, but the Kelty Grand Mesa 2 ($130, kelty.com) delivers performance at a relatively modest price and weight. This three-season freestanding shelter pitches fast and has a spacious interior for two people. Notably, materials like the aluminum poles and 68-denier floor and rainfly assure good durability. Downside: only one door and vestibule. 4 lbs. 1 oz.

SHOES

Finding affordable hiking shoes means getting low- or mid-cut shoes with comfort, support and construction that punch above their price, and few match the classic Keen Big Kids’ Targhee Waterproof Hiking Shoe ($70, keenfootwear.com). The shoes’ waterproof-breathable membrane keeps water out and prevents overheating, and the textile and leather uppers ensure durability and a good fit. 1 lb. 2 oz.

RAIN JACKET

The best values in rain jackets are those made with a brand’s proprietary waterproof-breathable technology, and the Columbia Watertight Jacket ($50-$75, columbia.com), with Columbia’s Omni-Tech waterproof fabric, delivers high-value performance at a surprisingly low cost. It has the features of a pricier shell, like an adjustable hood and hem and zippered pockets, and packs into a pocket.

SLEEPING PADS

How minimalist are you willing to go? How about really cheap but functional and durable? The classic Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest Classic Sleeping Pad ($20, scoutshop.org) provides basic padding and insulation against the ground, will never spring a leak (it’s a foam pad, not an air mattress) and will last as long as you want. 14 oz.

If you’d prefer a bit more cushion against the hard ground, the Klymit Static V inflatable air mattress ($55, scoutshop.org) measures 72 inches long and 23 inches wide and boasts 2.5 inches of thickness. The R-value — a measure of insulating properties — is just 1.3, not enough for cold ground but fine on mild nights, and it’s light and packable enough for backpacking. 1 lb. 2 oz.

"How to Buy Great Backpacking Gear on a Budget" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

When planning an aquatic trek, you’ll need the right vessel to carry you and your gear. That decision depends on how you want to travel and what kind of water you’ll encounter.

Typically, kayaks are ideal for solo paddling, while canoes can fit two or three people. The kayak’s smaller size often allows for better maneuverability in the water. Kayakers use a double-bladed paddle, which helps in covering long distances. So a kayak might be best for open-water travel or for handling
rushing water.

Canoeing offers a comfortable trip since canoes are open and roomy instead of confining like the cockpit in most kayaks. Enclosed storage areas can help keep your stuff dry in a kayak, and since canoes are open, you’ll want to invest in some waterproof dry bags.

Most canoeists wield a single-blade paddle, which provides control in a larger boat. Canoes generally are easier to grab and carry, so they’re great if you’ll be walking from one body of water to another, which is called “portaging.”

Of course, there are crossover boats, like whitewater canoes and sit-on-top kayaks, so do your research to find what you’ll be most comfortable in and what fits your budget.

"Canoe or Kayak? Which is the Better Choice?" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

John Musgrove was on his first backpacking trip, and he was not a happy hiker.

“I’m tired, and I think I’m going to barf,” he moaned.

The eighth grader and his Scouts BSA patrol were hiking a section of the Appalachian Trial in the Mark Trail Wilderness of north Georgia.

John, 13, was a good student but he didn’t exercise much and wasn’t in very good shape. The summer heat was hammering him. He sat beside the trail, slumped against his pack, pale as a ghost. Sweat poured down his face. His breathing was fast.

Pete Barnes, the Scoutmaster, helped John into a patch of shade. Mr. Barnes wet his bandanna from his water bottle, and draped it over the boy’s head. He told John to drink the rest of the water in small sips.

Over the next hour or so, John drained the bottle. By then, he seemed his same old self. Hiking slower and drinking more water, he was able to finish the trip.

LOSING IT, TROUBLE FOLLOWS

When your body loses too much water and salt, trouble follows. Heat cramps — muscle cramps caused by water and salt loss — aren’t serious, but they do hurt a lot.

To recover from heat cramps, drink a sports drink or water with a pinch of salt so you replenish electrolytes lost though sweating. Remember that most sports drinks contain a lot of sugar, so drink them in moderation. You can also drink plain water with a salty snack.

If you rest and gently stretch cramped muscles, and massage them a little bit, the pain goes away faster.

A BODY OF WATER

You may look and feel pretty solid, but more than half of you is water — and you need it all. On a normal day you may lose a gallon or more when you sweat, urinate or defecate and every time you breathe.

Usually you gain back the lost fluid by drinking and eating. But when you lose too much water, as John Musgrove did — a problem called dehydration — your health and maybe even your life are threatened.

Always drink before you’re thirsty. If your urine isn’t clear, you’re not drinking enough. Remember this saying: “If your urine is dark, you have missed the mark.”

SWEAT IT

Sweat is mostly water, with some sodium chloride, also known as salt, and some other things in it. When sweat evaporates from your skin on hot days, that cools you inside. If you’ve lost too much water, you can begin to get sick from heat exhaustion. Symptoms include headache, nausea, light-headedness, and extreme fatigue. You skin make look pale and feel clammy or sweaty.

This is a serious health problem. You can beat heat exhaustion by resting in a shady area, removing excess clothing, cooling off the skin and drinking water the way John Musgrove did. It’s a good idea to drink at least a quart of water, slowly, and to add just a pinch of salt to it. You can also nibble a few salty snacks while drinking. Remember: Sip slowly so your body absorbs as much of the water and salt as possible.

TOO HOT, TOO DRY EQUALS HEAT STROKE

If you get too hot, your skin becomes red and hot and you heat up inside. Your brain, which is very sensitive to rising temperatures, begins to cook. A hot brain can make you crazy, feel lost and want to argue or pick a fight. Heat stroke has struck. You have only minutes to act!

A person with heat stroke should be cooled down as quickly as possible. Soak their skin with water and fan them to speed the cooling effect of evaporation. If water is short, focus on cooling the head. This is a medical emergency! This person must be cooled immediately and evacuated.

TO PREVENT HEAT EXHAUSTION, BE COOL

You can prevent heat problems, using these tips:

• Avoid hard exercise during the hottest part of the day.
• If you’re not in shape, slow down and let your body adjust.
• Make sure you acclimate to the environment and get in shape before the event.
• Dress in layers and wear clothing that breathes and wicks moisture away from you.
• Eat snacks that contain a little salt.
• Drink water and keep drinking it.

Learn more about first aid, hydration and heat safety and read Scouting America’s guidance for preparing for high adventure activities.

"How to Avoid Heat Exhaustion and Heat Stroke" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

A lightweight backpacking stove provides a welcome hot drink and meal in the backcountry and might become critical gear if you must melt snow for water. Find the right stove for your adventures using these tips.

3 TYPES OF BACKPACKING STOVES

Backpacking stoves fall into one of three basic categories, according to the type of fuel they burn:

CANISTER STOVES burn isobutane-propane fuel in pressurized canisters and are popular for their simplicity, reliability, durability and power. Some are inexpensive, compact and ultralight. Designs range from tiny stoves that screw onto canisters to integrated systems.

Flame control and performance in wind vary and fall off sharply in subfreezing temperatures.

LIQUID-FUEL STOVES run on white gas and other fuels. A separate stove and fuel bottle require assembly, pressurizing and priming the burner.

Heavier and bulkier than canister stoves, they excel in subfreezing temperatures.

ALTERNATIVE-FUEL STOVES burn either solid fuel tablets or small pieces of wood. These stoves are popular with hikers for their low weight and simplicity, but they boil water and cook food slowly.

The BSA recommends you do not use liquid alcohol fuels, including isopropyl alcohol, denatured ethyl alcohol and ethanol. Use only fuels that are in accordance with the equipment manufacturer’s instructions. Do not modify equipment beyond its design limitations.

HOW TO CHOOSE A BACKPACKING STOVE

Canister stoves are widely popular and considered the most convenient for backpacking trips. Liquid-fuel stoves are often the choice of winter campers and mountaineers. And many thru-hikers prefer pocket-style stoves that take up little space in their already-stuffed packs.

Consider how you will use your camping stove, talk with your buddies to get their recommendations and check out a few of our favorites, shown on this page.

RECOMMENDED BACKPACKING STOVES

Few burners are simpler, cheaper or lighter than the ESBIT TITANIUM STOVE ($20, esbit.de). Its three folding legs open to suspend a small pot over a tiny tray where you light a solid fuel tablet (pot and fuel tablet purchased separately). Best if you’re going ultralight hiking; the stove lacks flame control and boils water slowly but reliably. 0.4 oz.

For simplicity, durability and price, it’s hard to beat the MSR POCKETROCKET 2 ($45, msrgear.com). Its folding support arms screw onto a canister and can handle a pot up to about 2.5 liters. It can boil a liter of water in just over 3 minutes, and the flame control won’t burn your noodles. Few stoves are lighter or more packable. 2.6 oz.

The SNOW PEAK LITEMAX TITANIUM STOVE ($60, snowpeak.com) offers the most power in the lightest, tiniest package. Made from titanium and coated aluminum, it has folding arms that pack small enough to close your fist around. When deployed, it can hold a small pot and quickly boil water. It also offers flame control. 2 oz.

For backpackers seeking to step up performance in a cooking system that’s still reasonably light and compact, the JETBOIL MINIMO ($150, jetboil.johnsonoutdoors.com) integrates a 1-liter pot/cup with a burner and heat exchanger mounted atop a fuel canister. It has a push-button lighter, good power and flame control, and is twice as efficient as simpler burners (you carry less fuel weight). Bonus: In subfreezing temperatures, it has exceptional performance for a canister stove. 15 oz.

The MSR WINDBURNER GROUP STOVE SYSTEM ($200, msrgear.com) elevates efficiency to an art form. This all-in-one kit combines a 2 1⁄2-liter pot that sits securely atop an enclosed pressure-regulated burner, which connects to a canister via a fuel line. The ceramic-coated aluminum non-stick pot has a ring on the bottom that fits over the burner ring, centering itself while trapping heat. The design benefits include consistent heat output, a windproof flame with simmer control and the ability to boil a liter of water in about 6 minutes. 1 lb. 4 oz.

As with any flame, burning stoves consume oxygen. They also give off carbon monoxide, a colorless and odorless gas that can kill. Always cook in a well-ventilated place — not inside a completely closed tent or snow cave.

"How to Buy a Backpacking Stove For Your Next Camping Adventure" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

In one part of the sky, there was a group of stars that looked like a connect-the-dots lion, and they named it Leo. In another part, they saw stars that looked like a hunter with a belt, club and shield, and they named it Orion.

Lots has changed since then, but those same constellations remain. In fact, the International Astronomical Union (IAU) has recognized 88 different constellations with no star appearing in more than one.

Stargazing is one of the best parts about camping in the remote wilderness.

Here are nine things you need to know about the night sky.

#1. THE RIGHT GEAR: BINOCULARS AND TELESCOPE

You don’t have to buy the fanciest binoculars around. Any decent pair will greatly increase what you can see, from moon craters to the colors of planets and the shapes of nebulae. Train your binoculars on the area of sky just above the spout of the teapot-shaped constellation Sagittarius, and you will be looking into the radiant heart of our galaxy — the Milky Way.

A small telescope can let you view Saturn’s rings, Jupiter’s great red spot (a giant storm) and the moons of several planets. Uranus and Neptune can be seen only with the aid of a telescope.

#2. WHAT’S OUT THERE?

The largest known objects in the sky are great swirls of dust and gas called nebulae. Viewed with the naked eye, nebulae look like stars. With binoculars or a telescope, however, you can see spectacular displays of color and shape.

Stars are ranked according to magnitude — their brightness relative to one another. Sirius is a first-magnitude star and the brightest star visible from Earth. Many points of light we see in the sky are distant galaxies — great collections of stars and nebulae.

#3. THE BIG DIPPER

The Big Dipper is part of the Ursa Major constellation and contains one of the most familiar of all the star patterns you can see from North America. Look in the north sky (in fall or winter, you’ll need to look close to the horizon) for four stars shaped like a bowl and three stars that form its handle.

Once you’ve found it, you can find the North Star, too. Focus on the two stars in the bowl of the Big Dipper that are the farthest from the handle. Imagine a line connecting them and extending upward. Keep following it, and you’ll find the very bright North Star. The North Star is also the end of the handle of the Little Dipper.

#4. ORION’S BELT

One constellation that’s easy to spot in the south sky in winter is Orion, known in Greek mythology as the Great Hunter. Two bright stars mark its shoulders. Three small ones form the head and two more the legs. But it’s the three stars in Orion’s belt that are often the easiest to spot. (There are also three stars hanging from the belt that form a sword.)

Betelgeuse (pronounced beetlejuice) is a red star that emits 60,000 times more light than our sun and forms the hunter’s upper shoulder. Rigel, a blue-white star, is the brightest of the constellation’s stars and marks one of the hunter’s feet.

#5. ORION’S COMPANIONS

Two smaller constellations — Canis Major and Canis Minor, or big dog and little dog — represent Orion’s hunting companions. Canis Major, sitting at the hunter’s right heel, is the easiest one to find. Follow Orion’s belt east and toward the horizon. You will see Sirius, or the dog star, just above the horizon. Sirius marks Canis Major’s eye (or nose … or shoulder … you have to use your imagination!).

Orion’s other companion, Canis Minor, stands across from the hunter’s shoulders. The smaller dog is made up of just two stars, including Procyon, the eighth brightest in the night sky.

#6. STAR MAPS

Road maps change only when new roads are built. Star maps, on the other hand, are always changing. As the Earth rotates, the stars move across the sky. And as the Earth moves around our sun, our view of the sky changes, as well. How to keep track of it all? With a star map.

You can find some star maps in your Fieldbook, or grab a trusted adult and look online. Apps can turn your smartphone into an interactive star map, while a planisphere is a printed map on a disk that you turn and rotate depending on your location and the time of the year.

#7. THE PLANETS

The brightest objects visible in the night sky are Mars, Venus, Jupiter and Saturn. Planets move around the sun at different speeds. When combined with Earth’s own movement, that means you can see different planets at different spots in the sky at different times of the year. Look online for up-to-date locations of the planets visible on any particular night in your area.

The fifth planet that you can view with the naked eye — Mercury — appears very faintly on the western horizon just after sunset. Uranus, Neptune and Pluto can be seen only with a telescope.

#8. THE MOON

The moon revolves around Earth about once every 27 days. When the moon’s surface is increasingly lit by the sun over the span of a couple of weeks, it’s called “waxing.” When it darkens, it’s called “waning.” The easiest way to tell which moon you’re looking at: If the right side of the moon (as you face it) is reflecting light, the moon is waxing; when the right side is dark, the moon is waning.

With the help of binoculars or a telescope, you can see craters on the moon created by the impact of meteorites.

#9. SHOOTING STARS

A meteor is a small chunk of material that lights up as it enters Earth’s atmosphere, which is how it gets the name “shooting star.” A meteorite is a meteor that survives its journey through the atmosphere and actually hits the ground.

If you’re camping in the wilderness with very little light pollution, trying staring at the sky and letting your eyes adjust. There’s a great chance that you’ll eventually see a shooting star or two. Once every few months, Earth experiences a meteor shower — a spike in the number of meteors streaking through the sky. The Geminid and Ursid meteor showers are viewable from the Northern Hemisphere in December.

LOOKING BACK IN TIME

Sirius is the brightest star in the night sky. At 8.6 light years away, it’s also one of the closest to Earth. But think about this: It takes 8.6 years for the light from Sirius to reach Earth. That means when you look at Sirius, you are seeing light that’s 8.6 years old. You’re looking back in time! What does Sirius look like at exactly this moment? We won’t know for another 8.6 years. (Spoiler: It will probably look the same.) The farther away a star is, the farther back through time you’re seeing.

Winter is a wonderful time for stargazing. Learn how to get started with our winter tours of the night sky at go.scoutlife.org/nightsky.

"9 Things to Know About the Night Sky" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

It’s drizzling, and you want to start a fire. Any tinder you gather will likely be too wet, right?

Wrong.

You can create an effective fire starter, even with a wet piece of wood. Just grab your knife so you can make a “fuzz stick.” The best piece of wood to use is one without knots that’s about a foot in length and a couple of inches in diameter. Soft woods like pine, birch and cedar are ideal.

Rainwater won’t seep into the middle of most branches, which means the interior wood stays dry.

First, strip off the bark and hold the piece of wood against something to stabilize it (not your leg — you don’t want to end up needing your first-aid kit).

Angle your knife along the wood and slide the blade to create thin, spiral-shaped shavings. Don’t cut too deep; you’re not trying to make notches. Leave the shavings attached to the wood. The thinner the shavings, the easier they’ll catch fire. One trick is to split your stick, giving you a wooden edge over which to run your knife — the smaller surface area should make it easier to make shavings.

When you’ve made quite a few shavings, prop your fuzz stick against your kindling and light the shavings on fire. The flames should easily spread up the stick and to the kindling.

For more fire-building tips, visit go.scoutlife.org/firestarters.

"How to Make a Fuzz Stick to Help Start a Fire" appeared first on Scout Life magazine.

Just like when you bake a cake, you need ingredients to start a campfire.

First, you need heat. That comes from matches. Then you need oxygen. As long as you’re lighting a fire outside (and you’re on Earth), oxygen is all around you. Last, you need fuel.

That’s where tinder, kindling and firewood come into play.

Striking a Balance

Starting a fire isn’t as simple as holding a match close to a piece of firewood.

You have to build your fire slowly using tinder, kindling and logs. Tinder is anything that burns quickly after you light it. Think of this as step 1 in the recipe of getting your fire burning. Kindling is step 2 in that process. If it can catch on fire easily but not burn as fast as tinder, it qualifies as kindling.

Like a chain reaction, you can arrange your fire fuel in a way that once the tinder catches fire, it ignites the kindling — which slowly catches your larger fuel wood that will burn for a long time. But it all starts when your match meets tinder.

BL-Tested Fire Starters

So what makes good tinder for a campfire? You probably know dry twigs and leaves do. But what about some other items you might have stashed away on a campout?

We put five campsite items and snacks to the test. Guess if each item will work to start a fire, then play the corresponding video to see if you’re right!

Note: We did the testing so you don’t have to. Don’t experiment with tinder at home.

CHEETOS

WHY THEY MIGHT WORK: They’re dry and small like twigs.

WHY THEY MIGHT FAIL: The ingredients that make a cheese puff edible might not sustain a flame (even if it’s the Flamin’ Hot variety).

THE RESULT:

https://youtu.be/mIC-s7YiZyo&rel=0

CARROTS

WHY THEY MIGHT WORK: We know super-dry twigs work as tinder. And carrots are about the same size.

WHY THEY MIGHT FAIL: Carrots have a lot of water in them. Water puts out fires

THE RESULT:

https://youtu.be/46dNu9sOLp0&rel=0

STEEL WOOL

WHY IT MIGHT WORK: Steel wool has a reputation as a great fire starter when you don’t have a match handy.

WHY IT MIGHT FAIL: Just because it might produce a spark, that doesn’t mean steel wool can produce the flame required of tinder.

THE RESULT:

https://youtu.be/9JwgrzId_k8&rel=0

COTTON BALLS

WHY THEY MIGHT WORK: Tinder is usually not dense but takes up a lot of surface area. That’s true with cotton balls.

WHY THEY MIGHT FAIL: You use cotton balls to clean wounds. That’s nothing like starting a fire.

THE RESULT: 

TWIZZLERS

WHY THEY MIGHT WORK: They’re dry. They’re tubular like some twigs.

WHY THEY MIGHT FAIL: There are chemicals in Twizzlers that make them safe to eat. But we’re not sure if these chemicals will fuel a flame or not.

THE RESULT:

Fire is No Joke!

Fire can be dangerous. It requires care and respect. Remember these fire-safety tips:

• Never play around fire.
• Never try to start a fire with a substance that could unleash toxic chemicals. Never burn something that contains paint.
• Never leave a fire to burn without supervision.
• Before you leave, make sure your fire is completely out (no longer smoking, with ashes cool to the touch).

You never know when you’ll need to think outside the box on a campout. Add to our never-ending list of fire-starter ideas.